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first dodge...72D100

Yes, the US made tools carry sticker shock, but when you need a REALLY good tool that won't let you down, go American. Many years ago I had to split a farm tractor to work on the power shift. I took it to a friend's shop because he had a concrete floor, which is pretty much a necessity when splitting a 15,500 lb tractor down the middle. The bolts holding the front and back half together were 3/4" diameter with a 16 point head. We used my friend's 1/2" drive deep well socket (3/4 or 13/16, can't remember) and the breaker bar, which was about 3 feet long (both SnapOn). On the end of the breaker bar we added a length of pipe, making the overall length of the lever around 6'. When tightening the bolts, they require 200 ft lbs of torque, so you know that loosening them took far more than that. My friend and I literally hung from the pipe, the breaker bar really flexed and when they broke loose, every one sounded like a gun going off. But the breaker bar and hinge pin took it and the socket never split, something that really surprised me. I just knew I was going to be buying him a new socket when we broke the first one. That made me a believer right there that when you really must have a good tool, don't consider the foreign made stuff, even the high dollar Asian stuff.
 
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Brother Bear, I have a thick skin, rhino skin. I took no offense, in fact, it keeps me grounded! Thank you.
On a dif. Note. Won't get my Betty till Monday. Electrical gremlin, truck won't start now unless "Hot Wire" ie. Screw driver.
Brakes looks good though... Ha![/QUOTE Make sure your relay is grounded good . If that's not the problem then try changing the relay . There pretty cheap at the parts store . Make sure the new one has a good ground as well .
 
Yes, the US made tools carry sticker shock, but when you need a REALLY good tool that won't let you down, go American. Many years ago I had to split a farm tractor to work on the power shift. I took it to a friend's shop because he had a concrete floor, which is pretty much a necessity when splitting a 15,500 lb tractor down the middle. The bolts holding the front and back half together were 3/4" diameter with a 16 point head. We used my friend's 1/2" drive deep well socket (3/4 or 13/16, can't remember) and the breaker bar, which was about 3 feet long (both SnapOn). On the end of the breaker bar we added a length of pipe, making the overall length of the lever around 6'. When tightening the bolts, they require 200 ft lbs of torque, so you know that loosening them took far more than that. My friend and I literally hung from the pipe, the breaker bar really flexed and when they broke loose, every one sounded like a gun going off. But the breaker bar and hinge pin took it and the socket never split, something that really surprised me. I just knew I was going to be buying him a new socket when we broke the first one. That made me a believer right there that when you really must have a good tool, don't consider the foreign made stuff, even the high dollar Asian stuff.
No one is arguing the fact that Snap-on , Cornwell , or Mack is a good tool . Or the fact of a good tool in your hands . Hell , after 30 plus years of twisting a wrench . I've got all the above and then some in my tool box myself . I was just letting him know that they are "pricey" . Not all of us can afford to go out and stock our tool boxes off of one of there trucks . Now I'm not saying to go out and buy the jap crap and I could give this long winded story on how a Snap-on ratchet broke and I cracked my knuckle's . But I'm not . Just shop around "GW" and try and get what you need , that is good quality at a good price .
 
My boy asked the Snap On guy the value of the tools in his truck...$1.5 million! I guess when you charge $50 for a single wrench that you absolutely must have to work on a Cummins engine, that adds up pretty quickly.

That's where they make a killing; the manufacturer designs something that requires a special tool that only one tool manufacturer makes...and you gotta have it. What's interesting is that on my (old) Japanese made Kawasaki motorcycles, you had to get the special tools from American manufacturers. Right there in the factory shop manuals with the American tool company's address. I have several home made tools hanging in the shop that I had to make to pull the 6 cylinder engine from one bike. Like the curved oddball shaped wrench I copied from the manual to hold the output shaft. That's the only time I've ever used it and probably ever will since there's only one model it was needed for.
 
I needed a deep impact socket a couple of weeks ago that I needed right away . So I ran down to the local Autozone to see if they had what I needed since that was the closest place to me . I wasn't expecting much but I had to give it a shot . I ended up buying a set of them for about 20 bucks . I was shocked to find out that they where a pretty good quality tool . A bonus , they come with a life time guarantee .
 
I needed a deep impact socket a couple of weeks ago that I needed right away . So I ran down to the local Autozone to see if they had what I needed since that was the closest place to me . I wasn't expecting much but I had to give it a shot . I ended up buying a set of them for about 20 bucks . I was shocked to find out that they where a pretty good quality tool . A bonus , they come with a life time guarantee .
At $20, you can just buy a new set of you blow some up!
 
At $20, you can just buy a new set of you blow some up!
Yeah , I couldn't believe it when I saw the price and I couldn't see how good they where because of the case they came in . But I needed that one size , so I said why not . I got home and took a good look at them and said "wow" . So far I've used them with my impact gun a "few" times and just the other day I had one on a breaker bar with a five foot poll on the end to brake some rusted out nuts and I'll tell you there taking a beating so far and are still as good as new . So far there definitely passing every test I can put them thru .
 
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