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1st Gen 1998 Dodge Durango Problems

Off Dodge topic. But need to look at grandsons 06 Escape and see if that blasted vaper tank is under there. The F250 is a huge pain unless I disconnect the line under the hood. Just got to remember to hook it backup when done so the check engine light doesn't come on. Talk about slow fill at 1 gal per minute and 36 gal fill.
 
Off Dodge topic. But need to look at grandsons 06 Escape and see if that blasted vaper tank is under there. The F250 is a huge pain unless I disconnect the line under the hood. Just got to remember to hook it backup when done so the check engine light doesn't come on. Talk about slow fill at 1 gal per minute and 36 gal fill.
I had a similar problem with my 08 Escape. There is a TSB on that. I replaced the vent line in the driver's side rear wheel well, and that cured it. I seem to remember that the end of the line was plugged with dirt or something. The new line terminates elsewhere. IDK, I forget. My wife rolled the Escape and it was written off. The wife was fine, if shaken not stirred.
 
I had a similar problem with my 08 Escape. There is a TSB on that. I replaced the vent line in the driver's side rear wheel well, and that cured it. I seem to remember that the end of the line was plugged with dirt or something. The new line terminates elsewhere. IDK, I forget. My wife rolled the Escape and it was written off. The wife was fine, if shaken not stirred.
Yes I have read that TSB and checked the vent. No problem there. The F250 has a vapor can mounted to the frame above the spare. When it plugs up it will not allow the tank to fill unless you dribble it in. I should just order the thing from RockAuto it only $160 compared to Fords $600. But the way it is I have to open the hood each fuel fill. Might as well do things right and check the fluids also. Something that was done every fill years ago when there were full service gas stations.
But back to the op's problem I would be more concerned with the problems over filling creates than the gauge not showing full. Chrysler recommends fill till the pump shuts down and stopping there. But naturally if you have driven 300 miles and only can get 5 gal. in there is a problem.
 
What I often do Is swap a different plug into the "bad" hole and see if it trips a code to whatever cylinder you put it into. If it trips in the new location. throw the plug away.
But if it trips in the same hole as it did before, then move the wire and/or the coil if COP.
If it still trips in the same hole, that just leaves the injector..... or a valve issue,
or an intake issue... if the brake booster happens to be on that runner.
If your engine seems to be burning oil lately, you may suspect the keg-plate..
 
I checked the engine codes again and it says that it is a cylinder 7 misfire. My stepfather seems to think it is a plug or the injector. Any ideas?
AJ nailed it, start simple. Plug, wire, injector, compression, leak down, plate on bottom of intake. When you drive it do you feel the misfire under load?
 
One step at a time is very important unless you simply like spending money needlessly and replacing parts.
 
Update-

I did what Mr. AJ suggested with taking the plug out and swapping it with another, here is what the plug looked like when it was taken out after it was cleaned.....
20210110_134341.jpg


While the plug was out my stepdad noticed that it was at about .50 so he tightened it a bit to .40. When that was done we swapped it with plug 3 and cleared the code. He told me he thought the wires looked good. I just got back from a little ride with it to the center of town and no light came on.....yet. I would think the light would of come on already but I will take it for a longer ride soon to see what really happens. I right now am thinking it is the plug but I will keep everyone posted when I take it out next
 
Next time post a picture of the electrode end before you clean it. A cleaned plug shows us will not much.
 
A ignition misfire under load will feel like a sharp jerk, it's usually very noticeable while slightly accelerating in OD or climbing a slight grade in OD

I mispoke, my apologies. I never paid attention until you said something, I took it for a ride yesterday and yes I feel that though sometimes are worse than others. You can feel the engine miss when you go up a hill and sometimes when you take off, but sometimes you don't feel it when you take off too if that makes sense. It picks its mood
 
Well I got an update on my Durango-

I took it for 2 rides and no engine light came on, now I take it to the gas station yesterday to top off the tank and the light comes back on. Well since the 7th and 3rd spark plugs were swapped to see if that would make a difference, it did but for only 2 and a half rides. We plugged in the code reader again and sure enough it said Cylinder 7 misfire, so i'm thinking it ain't the plugs. My stepfather seems to think it is the plug wires, I'm leaning towards the injectors. Any ideas?
 
I'm leaning towards the injectors. Any ideas?
Me too, leaning towards an injector.
as for other ideas;
This has already been talked about.

If you have COPs then swap the coils around.
If no COP then swap the secondary-wire to a different location.
If you have a distributor, check the #7 tower for cracks, tracks, or damage
If the misfire stays on #7, then check to see if it is sucking air at the port or runner. Or if the Keg is sucking air from the clean-out plate.
If no intake leaks are found, with the engine idling, go around to the back and with your palms, lightly cover the tailpipes. Make sure you can feel every exhaust pulse. Make sure it never feels like your palm just got sucked onto the pipe, no matter how briefly. Of course your exhaust system has to be 100% not leaking. If you do feel that phenomenon, even just one time, ask yourself how that is possible. There are only three possibilities, that I know of;
1) a cylinder misfired due to a problem with the A/F ratio, or the ignition system, and the mixture did not light and did not expand, so you felt it as a momentary interruption of pressure, or
2) an exhaust valve stuck open/or did not close, and when the intake valve opened, the intake sucked exhaust across the chamber, and you felt that as a momentary loss of exhaust pressure. or
3) you have a failed lifter or lobe, and the valve-events timing is wrong.

But in the absence of a missing pressure pulse in the tailpipes; yur gonna have to check the mechanicals.........
like a Compression Test and possibly, a LeakDown Test.

Good luck,man
 
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AJ,

The truck does have the y pipe slightly blew out but not as much as my black Durango was. This damn Durango is weird though, I started it up yesterday and no light was on and i took it for a 40 minute drive yesterday too and still no light. When my stepdad plugged in the code reader he didn't clear the code and I didn't do anything either but mind you it does still miss.
 
Switch #7 plug wire with #5, they should mbe about the same length. If it moves to #5, get a set of wires
 
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