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56 Dodge truck build

56hemitruck

56hemitruck

Active Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
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Location
Fallon nevada
I picked up a 56 dodge pick up a couple of years ago. Took me a while to figure out my build. Decided to use a Dakota frame and a 341 Desoto Hemi with a A-518. My dad had a hot rod 56 with a 330 Desoto when I was a kid. I wanted to create a tribute to my dad's old truck.
I've got the motor in the frame and the cab set on. I had to set the motor back 7" or so for steering and exhaust clearance. The rear trans mount I reused but I had to add tubing to the inside of the frame for the crossmember to slide back on. Front motor mount brackets came from Hot Heads. But the frame to insulator portion is going to be a fab job to clear the rack on the drivers side. passenger side be a little easier.
I'm a little concerned about how much work will go into making a trans tunnel and firewall.

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Yeah, that looks like a real project you've got going there, I'm interested how you are going to go about the fab work. Will be nice to see it progress along.
 
Cardboard templets are cheap and easy to modify. I tape everything together with clear package tap. Makes it easy to cut apart and flatten to mark metal. Looks good so far.
 
That engine sits back pretty far. Gotta give it to you guys who fab up things I'd be afraid to attempt. Look forward to seeing this one done.
 
I had some very good help last night. My son and son-in-law came over last night. We got the cab and front group mocked up in place. Now it's time to build cab mounts. I'll be reusing the Dakota biscuits. We had to really get after the firewall. I'm happy with the trucks ride height. It's the look I wanted. Back at it tonight.

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I'm liking what I see so far. And oh by the way, ain't it great to have that kind of help?
 
Yes it's great to get help, especially when we were muscling the cab around. I would like to get suggestions on the steering column, shaft, u-joints etc. Aftermarket would be ok but junkyard works for me too. I would like to use a column shift but not sure I have enough valve cover clearance for the shift arm. Been trying to you tube steering shaft ideas? Haven't found anything that gives detailed do's and don'ts. The rack is tough to get to because of exhaust clearance issues. So I think I will have two sets of joints to get there. Any thoughts or better yet pics and explanations of successful double joint shafts?
 
By shift arm on the column . Do you mean the little arm that comes out of column or all the linkages and pivot points that attach to it going down to the transmission ? By the way , GREAT build . I'm glad you decided to do a build thread . :cool:
 
I saved all the Dakota linkage. But because of the motor set back I will have to move the cross linkage between the frame and transmission back on the frame. Not a big deal. My concern is the arm out of the column and valve cover clearance. I will have to fab a new longer rod to go back to the cross arm. I don't want to use a floor shift but it may be the only way? Again, any help on which joints to use, do's and don'ts of routing the steering shaft with two joints, etc. would be appreciated.
 
I don't know if it would help in this case . But a while back I was helping someone that was putting a 440 ( with headers ) in an old Coronet and he wanted to keep the column shift . But there was no room ( and it would have been a pain in the butt ) for any of the linkages . We ended up using a lokar style cable set up to the column shift .
 
Just a quick question . Instead of cutting the fire wall and moving the engine down and back . Couldn't you have moved the engine up and forward and either gotten another oil pan or modified the one you have to clear the rack ? Just curios , because I can't see what you see , me not being there in person to see what clears and what doesn't .
 
bear said:
Just a quick question . Instead of cutting the fire wall and moving the engine down and back . Couldn't you have moved the engine up and forward and either gotten another oil pan or modified the one you have to clear the rack ? Just curios , because I can't see what you see , me not being there in person to see what clears and what doesn't .
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I was wondering that myself. I know the ploy blocks, some of the early hemis and LA block will excepet the same oil pan. An LA truck pan would put the sump in the rear. 318 pans are different than 360 pans due to main bearing sizes.
 
When I started fitting the engine and trans I tried having the engine in the "stock" 1992 Dakota location using the rear trans mount as a reference. The 318 magnum motor has pads on the middle of the block for the motor mounts. The Dakota moves the motor 2" to the passenger Side for steering clearance.
The Desoto hemi has motor mounts in the typical LA location towards the front. When I tried the stock location I had major oil pan interference. The exhaust wasn't even close. Steering wouldn't clear exhaust. I did not want to cut the front frame crossmember other than minor scalloping for clearance.
I was hoping with minor firewall cuts I could find enough clearance. I thought at first I could cut a couple inches out of the front of the oil pan sump and I'd be good. Problem was steering and exhaust clearance demanded moving the motor back further. I tried several positions moving back an inch at a time. When I finally got steering and exhaust clearance the oil pan was no problem. But I had to really cut into the firewall. I think I'll be ok inside the cab. It doesn't seem like it really intrudes too bad into the driver or passenger space?
I'll send more pics later showing rack clearance etc. I have a pic of exhaust and steering, and trans crossmember modification.

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Believe me , I'm not a arguing or criticizing your methods . I've done a lot of motor swaps as well as body swaps . So understand the term "you'd have to be there" . All that said , I just would have thought that it would be better in the long run to modify or custom make a set of headers as well as the oil pan , to make it fit closer to the stock location . Same with the transmission cross member .
 
Well I can't argue with you. You might be correct on which way to go. This is my first body swap. Although I raced dirt cars for 18 years and built my own cars. The down side of having the motor back is a cramped cab. So I'm thinking I'll finish the cab and fender mounts. Tack them in. Then mock up the steering, seating, and firewall to determine if the driving position is comfortable.
If I need to move the motor forward, custom headers are mandatory to clear the suspension crossmember. The steering shaft is problematic even with custom headers?there is point as you move back the left motor mount would have to be very creative. The rack input shaft and motor mount are trying to exist in the same place. A motor plate would fix that but I'm not crazy about having one? Like I said earlier, I spent 10 hours last Saturday mocking up engine and trans positions moving back an inch or a little more at a time. One problem would be solved and others were created as I moved back. Right now I'm in the best place I've found.
 
56hemitruck said:
One problem would be solved and others were created as I moved back.
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The sole reason I stick with stock style swaps. I don't have the brain power or tools required to accomplish something of this magnitude, I leave up to people like you, and sit back and watch. The engine plate might clear up a few issues in one swoop. I have one for my Dart, but will wait til it gets a crazy HP engine built for it.
 
Hey , we all have to start somewhere . :D I don't know if this helps at all . But the way I approach builds like this is , I get the body and nose put where I want it on the frame I'm using , ( tacked in just in case plan A doesn't work . lol ) . The front wheels being where I'm going to want them in the fenders . And then move on to getting the engine and transmission where I'm going to want it . I try and incorporate the mounts that's in the frame I'm using , but sometimes you have to get creative and fab up your own . While still using some sort of factory motor mount , just in case I never needed to change it in the future . My end goal is always trying to make the engine look like it came in that vehicle . I know it's easier "said then done" and it's a lot of work . But just take your time and think about what you want to accomplish and you'll get it done . ;)
 
LocuMob said:
The sole reason I stick with stock style swaps. I don't have the brain power or tools required to accomplish something of this magnitude, I leave up to people like you, and sit back and watch. The engine plate might clear up a few issues in one swoop. I have one for my Dart, but will wait til it gets a crazy HP engine built for it.
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That's why I own a "few" BFH's Mob ! :) No seriously , The engine plate isn't to bad to use . I've used them before as well . When I've had too . The second big block Dart I did for someone , I ended up going that rout . But that was an ex drag car that we put into street duty . The only thing I didn't like about using them , is that there was no cushion between the engine and the frame . So you felt the motor more . In your case mob , Don't forget to shave the back of the water pump housing the thickness of the plate . Otherwise your pullies are never going to line up .
 
Yeah I got it for future use. I know I want it to end up as some radical beast, but will wait til I get older and it becomes a possibility. For my truck I grabbed everything I had in my 84 with a 400. Factory mounts are awesome.
 
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