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My Dart Restoration

Scott, yeah I got into that SAME mess you just did on the casting numbers... 907 heads? o_O I never head or know of anyone that has yet to speak of a big block "907" head...... I KNOW the 906 heads are BEASTS too! They are said to flow the best right out of the factory.... STILL can have some meat hogged out and smoothed inside the runners as well as a valve job, BUT, With my 383, I went into a hunt looking for the 915 heads "closed chambered" to up my compression a bit. (A little pick me up if ya will) that is a simply BOLT ON power producer without a total rebuild you know?

What are those 907's like? MAYBE a open chambered beast from the 906's? :rolleyes:

I did see that trick flow head 440source from FABO I'm a stocker so I'm trying to keep "that look" to me the 440souce stuff is to aftermarket looking for me!

SO Indy is gonna make a Max-Wedge replacement heads REALLY? NOW ya got my attention (I KNOW what the factory heads were capable of), and for their time they were some NASTY S.O.B's for street use and flow like no other, (Was a reason it was called the "Orange Monster" -Because it WAS!) So, I can only DREAM of what those heads on my 383 would produce as far as power!
 
I didn't see the number clearly and there's too much crap in my garage, I had to wiggle between the 56 Medalist and my shelves to see them, and that was the last set I got to.

Indy makes the 440EZ heads that are Max Wedge port. $2300 and you can have a pair. I'm waiting to see the Trick Flow heads and if they have the ports in the same location before I decided what to go with. But I have to build a regular old warmed up 440 and sort my car out with that, then go for crazy power that I really don't need.
 
Actually I'm pretty sure the 516's are closed chambers as well but have small valves I gave a set to a buddy of mine I had on a 413 he had them cut for hardened seats and big valve and did some port work all I have in my shop now are 906's 452's and I think a set of 346's but I really wanna try a set of trick flows on my 440 along with the big solid roller 1.6 rollers and the Milidon fixed idler gear drive I have laying on the shelves I think it would be a fun combo
 
Yes it's not a bad thing but sometimes I wonder why do I have some of this stuff I will probably never use it lol like a stack of vintage b block intakes vintage valve covers and whatever else you may find in my basement storage room shop or shop attic
 
Moparwendell said:
Actually I'm pretty sure the 516's are closed chambers as well but have small valves I gave a set to a buddy of mine I had on a 413 he had them cut for hardened seats and big valve and did some port work all I have in my shop now are 906's 452's and I think a set of 346's but I really wanna try a set of trick flows on my 440 along with the big solid roller 1.6 rollers and the Milidon fixed idler gear drive I have laying on the shelves I think it would be a fun combo
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I have to disagree, the 516's ARE open chambered, they have low compression ratio because of it (I owned a 383 with 516's on it.) And the only way to get better compression easily is to replace them with the 915's (closed chambered), ALTHO, the 906's are open chambered, BUT a smaller opening and breathe real good!

The 516's will have a freeze plug in the corner..... Easiest way to identify them by eye without a casting number!
 
67 Power Wagon said:
I have to disagree, the 516's ARE open chambered, they have low compression ratio because of it (I owned a 383 with 516's on it.) And the only way to get better compression easily is to replace them with the 915's (closed chambered), ALTHO, the 906's are open chambered, BUT a smaller opening and breathe real good!

The 516's will have a freeze plug in the corner..... Easiest way to identify them by eye without a casting number!
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They aren't low compression heads so much as the engine built with them had low compression. Different piston heights will give higher/lower compression ratios. They built plenty of higher compression engines with open chamber heads.

How much will you raise compression with the switch to 915's? Instead of searching for an elusive head you can spend $1000 and get the 440Source aluminum heads, closed chamber and the aluminum helps it act like a lower compression.
 
Thats true Scott, BUT, without pulling the engine and doing a complete rebuild changing the heads is an easy bolt on compression raiser..... Removing the open chambered heads to put on a set of closed chambered ones will raise the compression without yanking the whole engine out..... To go on to raise compression by replacing the pistons, you be doing a full rebuild!

Plus cost? Well $1,000 in heads is more then my pockets will hold right now so.....the stock closed chambered heads would be plenty..... (I'm not lookin to fully rebuild, just quick bolt-ons for now!) "maybe".....
 
Nahhhh the 8.1:1 isn't on the Industrial engines they were actually lower then the smog engines! I mean really, I'm getting MAYBE 250 to just around 285 HP I guess, I'd like to get a little more without totally having to yank the engine. BUT, a few "bolt-ons" might aid all that, getting the compression up be one of them!

IF I remember correctly, the 413 Industrial V-8 was rated to have 285-295 HP, that being said the 383 is less then what the 413 was said to get. (NOT sure of the foot lbs) but, I know I'm getting a LOT more torque then horsepower....
 
LocuMob said:
I thought the factory only went down to 8.2:1 but that's smog engines. I would think industrial engines had a little more than that, but I don't have any clue.
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Nope , Very low compression . But very strong bottom ends .
 
67 Power Wagon said:
Nahhhh the 8.1:1 isn't on the Industrial engines they were actually lower then the smog engines! I mean really, I'm getting MAYBE 250 to just around 285 HP I guess, I'd like to get a little more without totally having to yank the engine. BUT, a few "bolt-ons" might aid all that, getting the compression up be one of them!

IF I remember correctly, the 413 Industrial V-8 was rated to have 285-295 HP, that being said the 383 is less then what the 413 was said to get. (NOT sure of the foot lbs) but, I know I'm getting a LOT more torque then horsepower....
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Yeah , Your motor was built to haul heavy loads up hill at a steady RPM . It's what I call a stump puller . Strong torque to say the least .
 
ohhh hell yeah! I know it. thing hauled 2 trucks out of the deep one time on one winch, as I went in reverse!!! So. and both trucks were dead, and sinking in the soft mud under the water (water was almost 3/4th up the windshield, on 2 lifted trucks!)

I had no issues hauling their dumb asses out LOL
 
So I got my upper control arms in the trunk of my car, need to find someone with a torch to get the bolts out and free of the frame pieces the seller left. I go to work and ask one of the maintenance guys, "sure, no problem". I put them in the back of his truck after our shift ends Tuesday morning. Come in the next day and he says he got the bolts out, but couldn't get the sleeve out. Huh? Oh, the bushings? " I have a tool that will get that out" I tell him. He says he can have them out in 2 minutes, just collapse them in on themselves. Ok sure. Shift ends and he tells me they are on a table outside. I totally forget within a minute. Remember this tidbit as I'm going to work on Wednesday. They are gone. I ask around and no one knows anything. Shift ends and the morning boss said he saw them on a different table. He tells me to check the dumpster where they put the trash. Moved a few bags and I see the ball joint socket of one. Sweet! I got them, no need to panic anymore. Then as I'm heading to work Thursday I notice the bushings have been cut out, with a cutoff wheel, and he gouged my arms, one just barely touching, the other got some good gouging. They look like shit and I've already sourced some super nice clean ones that just need paint. I could use mine if I needed to, but I think I'll keep them as spares. Pisses me off that I told him I had the tool and he did it a ads backwards way. Oh, and he didn't even get all the bushings out, they all have the shouldered part still in the arm. Cut it up and don't even get the part out. Ugh.
 
Scott,
Gotta love "Hacks" man, and it sounds like thats what the guy that did the work was or is! WOW.....

Have you talked to him about the work he did? (I sure would!)
 
67 Power Wagon said:
Scott,
Gotta love "Hacks" man, and it sounds like thats what the guy that did the work was or is! WOW.....

Have you talked to him about the work he did? (I sure would!)
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No not yet. I'll probably just leave it alone. I know I'm getting replacement parts, he ain't gonna help pay for em, so what's the point, he will still be a hack. Sure wish he would have said "I'm gonna use a cutoff wheel". "Noooo!" At least I'll have nice parts on the car. It's only money, and money isn't real.
 
I think the guy who "helped" me with those arms knows he f*#ked them up, he hasn't said a word to me or even acknowledged me and I've seen him plenty of times tonight. He's usually a lot more talkative. Oh well, I'll just have to be very specific in my instructions from now on, to anyone. Lesson learned I guess.
 
You racing guys paying attention, would you run 90/10 shocks up front on a street car? I have a pair and my buddy thinks it's suicide (not quite) for the street. I know it would stay up higher longer if I hammered it, but what would it do driving gently?
 
I wouldn't care that he will remain a "Hack" I'd still go bust his balls for stupidity and doing work for me thats unacceptable..... -More or less WHY I do my own work, most the time.....
 
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