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Transplant from FABO

Looks like it'll be a fun project--I don't have any pics of my dad's ram right now, but picture one in two tone...charcoal grey and silver, with the exact same interior except for the steering wheel and the factory style black wagon wheels. That's what it would look like. There are lots of fond memories stashed away in that truck...like driving from Houston to big bend state park, or Amarillo, Fredericksburg...it's been a place or two. I kinda wish it were 4wd, but then it wouldn't be quite as much fun making it fast.

I thought about sourcing a 5.7 Hemi conversion for it, and truth be told it would probably be cheaper...and you'd get the free benefit of overdrive...the big block was more my dad's idea than mine...but we shall see.
 
My brother is doing a 5.7 hemi and a viper 6 speed conversion in his Warlock. He could have had a 440 in it for around $1000. He is now over $10,000 into the hemi conversion, including $2000 just for an ecu and custom wiring harness.
 
My brother is doing a 5.7 hemi and a viper 6 speed conversion in his Warlock. He could have had a 440 in it for around $1000. He is now over $10,000 into the hemi conversion, including $2000 just for an ecu and custom wiring harness.

Well, I can't even come close to saying that. The 383 I bought is going to run me well into a couple grand just for the engine...it needed rebuilt and I'm picky about parts, so that translates to $$...now if I'd found a running 383 in great tune for a grand I'd have been all over it. But there would still be the matter of mounts, oil pan, headers, brake booster, and other ancillaries. I know a hemi would be pricier, but I wouldn't have to do anything with the engine/trans apart from fluids.
 
Switch to manual brakes then you don't have to worry about a booster. Its sounds like you were going to be putting a solid lifter cam in, so manual brakes will make it easier to get that driverside valve cover off.

You will also need the correct transmission kickdown linkage for the Big Block.
 
They make offset brake booster brackets. I'm not losing my power brakes. I like them too much. I'm keeping power steering and the aftermarket A/C the PO installed. And I'll still push it somewhere in the upper 400 hp.
 
So I was looking on BPE's website...according to them:

...If you are installing a B Engine, 360-383-400, either booster generally will not cause any value cover interference when using production style valve covers...

Soooo, I might not even have to use a different booster at all...I do have aftermarket covers, but I can swap to standard ones or fab on the aluminum ones to make them fit. If I do swap boosters, I won't be spending over $270 for the midland dual diaphragm from BPE, it'll be a $96 one from AutoZone for a 1984 D250/350...the 3/4+ ton trucks already used the dual diaphragm booster...money saved. Either way, I won't truly know until I try to get the thing in there, which ain't happenin' for at least another year...and that's being optimistic.

As far as the solid cam, I've talked to at least a dozen different people regarding how often they actually had to set their lash. My friend with a '93 Cobra (solid roller 408W) saw regular 1/8 mile strip duty for two seasons (roughly twice a month) before taking the 408 out for a bigger engine; it only required adjustment twice...that's for two years...I helped him both times; none of them were more than .002" out, and most were still where we put them the year before. On the flipside of that, my Dad told me about his '56 Bel Air with a solid cammed 283 required it every three weeks or so until he had to pin the studs, then it was about every oil change. Then there's a guy named Gerry-I can't recall his last name at the moment, but he used to race at the drag strip near my hometown (Little River/Academy) when I was growing up, then he and his wife wound up in the same town I did after I joined the AF some years later. He used to drive a red mid '70s Camaro with a 355, then swapped to a 383. He loved flat tappet solid cams and raced every weekend the track was open, that engine saw the high side of 6K RPM every single shift and he said he checked them twice a season just to verify, OR, when his ETs slipped more than about 0.08-0.10 sec from normal. He told me until he lost two cams to non-zinc/manganese oil (before a lot of folks knew about that), the lash usually wasn't out, but he checked them just because it gave him something to do on a weekend. He did say however, the 70s and 80s were a different story for him because he didn't have the money to buy really good pushrods or rockers, so they'd wear a little more quickly and did require a more periodic adjustment...which is why he stuck with that practice later on despite having better parts.

In short; what I gleaned out of those stories among many others I spoke directly to, is that with quality parts, I probably won't have a legitimate need to be in the valve covers more than twice a year...if I do, something is probably wearing prematurely and needs to be fixed or I've suddenly lost my ability to use a feeler gage. In either case, if I'm only in there every few months, I can handle that...and just like Gerry, it'll give me something to do on a weekend. :)

Jeff
 
Oh--the kickdown cable...yeah, I'll probably wind up buying the one from Lokar...I bought that one for my Scamp with a 904, and I'm pretty happy with that setup. BPE will get some of my money, but probably just for the "kit" to swap in the big block...and maybe one or two of their bracket kits. Just depends on what I find between now and then.
 
I think I'm going to move up the 440 timetable. I decided to fix the leaking valve covers on the 318 yesterday. I have Moroso fabricated aluminum valve covers that require small allen head bolts because you can't fit a socket in the openings. I bought special bolts and a 5 inch allen head socket. When I originally did the covers, the allen twisted at the end and I figured I didn't have enough torque because they leaked. After spending ten minutes spraying carb cleaner down the carb trying to get it to start, it started and I drove it around to the driveway. I found the bolts were bottoming out. I took them all out and cut them down 1/4" and that worked. The allen head broke on the last bolt of the first cover. Off to town to buy another. I finished the other side and started it up. No leaks. I decided to go for a test drive and it wouldn't rev up, very boggy. Then it died. It would start and idle, but if I gave it gas it died. WTF? I looked for vacuum leaks and checked the carb holddown bolts to make sure they were tight. The fuel filter was original by the look of it, so I bought a new one and put it in. Now it won't start at all. I pulled the line off the carb and put it in a jar and cranked. Not one drop of fuel came out. Off to buy a fuel pump. That did the trick and it runs great now. Still, I am putting money into a motor that isn't supposed to be in there for long, so I think it's time to reassemble the 440 and get it in the damn truck. It does look good, though. Put the intake, carb, valve covers and air cleaner last fall.
 
I was shaking my head and chuckling at the same time man, I know that feeling--so damn annoying. I saw something you posted on FABO yesterday about a 440 stroker kit? If you're going to move up the timetable, are you still planning on stroking the RB or just build it as is?
 
It's a budget build. I may stroke it later when I have more cash. I drove the Ramcharger to work and put in shocks and aligned it, then drove to a car show. I opened the hood and there was oil everywhere. The damn intake is leaking out the front. Not enough silicone apparently. Got it home and parked it. I think I'm going to pull the motor, put the stock manifold back on and sell it. That 440 needs to go in soon. My brother's 5.7 Hemi / Viper 6 speed is almost ready in his Warlock. I'd like to have a truck to drive with him.
 
Boooo for leaky engines! I understand how you feel on wanting your truck running. I can't recall, but isn't your 440 pretty close to ready? And did you read the part I put above about a double diaphragm reduced diameter booster--or did you already buy one for your truck?
 
Boooo for leaky engines! I understand how you feel on wanting your truck running. I can't recall, but isn't your 440 pretty close to ready? And did you read the part I put above about a double diaphragm reduced diameter booster--or did you already buy one for your truck?

I didn't read it well, but is the Autozone a small diameter booster? And if it is, do you have a part number?
 
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