• Welcome to For Trucks Only !

    We are a community of American Brand Pickup Truck and SUV owners. Join now! Its Free!

ABS, dash brake light, Tach pegged, no horn and no brake lights

Cranky1

Banned Old Stinky Fart
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
337
Reaction score
249
Location
Paserdener TX
Is this stuff all tied together somehow? ABS light started coming on along with the brake light on the dash whenever I step on the brakes and that's when I noticed my horn isn't working along with my tach being all the over to the right and stays there even when I turn it off. If I try the horn, I can hear what sounds like a relay trying to make the horn work but it goes quiet when I step on the brake. Also have no brake lights. Also, once I'm off the brakes, the ABS and brake lights go out after a few seconds. Another thing, when I try to blow the horn with the ignition on, the ABS/brakes lights on the dash come on....
 
Last edited:
Sounds like a short or a bare wire some where , but where I don't have a clue . Have you done anything in the wiring lately that you might have disturbed something ?
 
Never touched the wiring at all...matter of fact, the truck is pretty much as it came from the factory except for wheels, tires and a straight pipe :D
 
I'd be looking for a bad ground connection. Bad grounds will cause all kinds of wierd, crazy and unexpected occurances. The really wierd ones happen when current from one application searches for a path to the ground and since electricity takes the path of least resistanace, it will sometimes try to ground itself through a different application. A good example I've had happen a number of times when pulling a trailer is when the ground on the trailer fails to make good connection to the truck. The result is when applying the brakes, the brake light is very dim and the tail light comes on dimly, even though the tail lights aren't even turned on.

On the '70s pickups, there are at least two places where the dash wiring harness grounds to the metal dash. In addition, on the fuse block the positive side of the fuses are connected to two buss bars (a strip of metal that provides a common connection), each of which is connected to a single hot wire. If your fuse blick has two rows of fuses, you might check to see if there is any commonality between the affected applications. For example, if the horn, brake lights, ABS and instruments are all located on one row of fuses while those on the other side all function correctly, that could be a clue that the problem is before the fuse block rather than after. Most often, but not always, a bare wire results in a blown fuse or smoking/melted wiring because they tend to ground out on whatever hard object they rubbed against, which is usually metal. Non-conductive objects tend to be plastic and aren't hard enough to wear through the wire insulation.

To summarize, you might first take a look at the fuse block to see if the problems have any commonality. You may also one at a time unplug the fuse to the afflicted function. For example, unplug the horn fuse and see if any of the other problems disappear. If not, replace that fuse and pull the next one, even those to unaffected functions. Pulling a fuse may cure the problems, or a function that operates intermittently may cease to function altogether. For example, if pulling the horn fuse makes the brake lights stop working altogether, even when they are supposed to be working, that is a clue that a bad ground connection somewhere was causing the horn circuit to be used as the ground. If the fuse stuff fails, then grab a flashlight and peer under the dash, wiggleing wires and see if anything starts working the way it's supposed to. When it comes to electrical problems, it's easier to find the ones that quit working altogether. The intermittent ones are the head scratchers.
 
Found out last night that the only outside lights that work are the hazards and turn signals....will be working on it on Sunday when my nephew comes over. My back is too whacked to be diving under the dash these days. Getting old sucks!
 
And the problem was...bulkhead connector was corroded. The only thing not working now is the tach and I think it may be fried. Oh well.
 
Sounds like you found it... I was going to suggest the maybe the Rear Axle ABS brake speed sensor on-top of the rear end housing, I had a similar issue on my 99 SLT Dakota 4x4, it was the speed sensor $70 @ Summit Racing or Napa, my speedo didn't work until you got over 35mph, but had no tach, the yellow abs light stayed & brake warning light stayed on IIRC for some lame reason thru the computer everything in the dash cluster goes thru that sensor, you may want to check it too, since I have no Idea what year yours is...

Rear Axle ABS Speed sensor SMP-ALS203_WB Summit Racing.jpg
 
The tach is working now....was about to start looking for reasons why but a few days later, it came to life. I'm kinda surprised that this truck hasn't given me more electrical problems because it's a 95 and has spent it's entire life outside in a very humid environment....
 
Back
Top