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ABS & Brake light's on

Shorty Thompson

Active Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
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Location
Taylorville , Illinois
Alright I just dropped my 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie SLT with 2" belltech drop spindles in the front, then 2" drop shackles in the rear. Had the frontend aligned got the truck back now the the ABS & Brakes lights are on. Brakes are fine, stop good. Why is the lights on? Anyone??????
 
Key on, off, on, off, on count the flashes of the check engine light on the dash. If all you get is 5 5, it has finished its internal scan and found nothing. The codes are online and blink-blink=11, blink blink- blink blink blink=23 and so on. No single digits and nothing over 55.
 
From I have read, 97 has to be flashed out like the 96. Read this,

Here is the DLC layout
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both those lights are on, on my 96 Dakota 4wd, right now. Pedal went LOWWWWW... Front M/C reservoir (for rear brakes) nearly empty, truck up on lift, wheels pulled/ no leaks found. rears were adjusted up tight enough that I had to back them down to get the drums offso adjustment="that's not it". no telltale wet spot on front of booster but no blown lines either. so I'm gonna start with a new master. 25 years old and 236K miles, original M/C still in place, to this point/
NOT HAPPY that I absolutely COULD NOT find a replacement M/C, from anywhere but freakin China..... SOB.... Raybestos (which is what I got), Wagner, Centric (whoever they are), Cardone, (and no I don't want a reman) all come from "over there"..... dammit..... that does not make me happy one bit. especially on something so important as BRAKES!! Cmon now. Ridiculous.
 
both those lights are on, on my 96 Dakota 4wd, right now. Pedal went LOWWWWW... Front M/C reservoir (for rear brakes) nearly empty, truck up on lift, wheels pulled/ no leaks found. rears were adjusted up tight enough that I had to back them down to get the drums offso adjustment="that's not it". no telltale wet spot on front of booster but no blown lines either. so I'm gonna start with a new master. 25 years old and 236K miles, original M/C still in place, to this point/
NOT HAPPY that I absolutely COULD NOT find a replacement M/C, from anywhere but freakin China..... SOB.... Raybestos (which is what I got), Wagner, Centric (whoever they are), Cardone, (and no I don't want a reman) all come from "over there"..... dammit..... that does not make me happy one bit. especially on something so important as BRAKES!! Cmon now. Ridiculous.
Brakes didn't fall out. However!!!!!! # 1 , I mentioned it to a guy that replaced the bed for me . He said probably something with the rear brakes that that's what the ABS' were controlling, # 2, When I had the frontend aligned the mechanic took it for a ride and said it stepped on the brakes and it pulled hard ( I think ) to the left. He asked if I had any issues with it pulling 1 way or the other. I told him no. But the lights were on at that point on.
 
brake pull; either MAJOR split between caster setting on left vs caster on right/ OR something loose/shifting on front suspension OR bad caliper/OR bad flex hose. usually on the side AWAY from the pull.
could also be different tires left to right/ either a different tread pattern, different diameter, something like that can cause. Ive also seen a blown axle seal and soaked rear shoes cause a pull/drag to one side. or stuck caliper slides, causing one side to only have 1/2 the brake power of the opposite wheel.
 
brake pull; either MAJOR split between caster setting on left vs caster on right/ OR something loose/shifting on front suspension OR bad caliper/OR bad flex hose. usually on the side AWAY from the pull.
could also be different tires left to right/ either a different tread pattern, different diameter, something like that can cause. Ive also seen a blown axle seal and soaked rear shoes cause a pull/drag to one side. or stuck caliper slides, causing one side to only have 1/2 the brake power of the opposite wheel.
I get it. But there's no pull to either side when I apply the brakes. So that's not an issue for me.
 
I had to drive back down in order to switch out the booster. The wet spot was a telltale sign that something on the master was busted and therefore I needed to get a new master cylinder to ensure proper safety. The car is going on 25 years old and only has 236,000 miles on it so I feel it's time for a new master if not anything because I'm expecting to put this car into retirement soon. So far all of my vehicles have lasted me over 300,000 miles with original equipment so yes, quality pays! and i got info from there QUIETEST ALL SEASON TIRES
 
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