• Welcome to For Trucks Only !

    We are a community of American Brand Pickup Truck and SUV owners. Join now! Its Free!

57 D200 brake drums

D

Davemarais

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2012
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Bristol, Ct.
I need to remove the drums from the rear of my D200. Usually the drums will pull out, sometimes rust can make them tight needing some hammering and PB blaster. Before I do this I wanted to be sure there isn't something I might be missing. Do these drums pull off with out anything else to remove? Thanks for your help...Dave
 
IF they are like the earlier Dodge rear drums,they are on a tapered axle with a key. This means you are going to need a puller to pull them,and even then it's not a walk in the park. I found one from Sears that worked where every one I borrowed from a garage failed,but Sears quit selling it right after I bought mine.

The puller you need is one for a 4 and 1/2 inch bolt patter that has 3 arms that bolt to the hub,and a big bar that goes on the center screw that you smack HARD with a BFH. More than once. Smack it vigorously several times,let it sit for a few minutes,and then try to tighten the center screw again. Repeat as necessary,and it will be necessary. Use your BFH to smack on the sides and face of the brake drum occasionally,too. That helps break the rust free and the vibrations really help your screw puller exert force.

The arms will usually be mounted on a ring so you can rotate them and get a balanced pulling pressure.

Here is one from Sears: http://www.sears.com/otc-hub-puller/p-00971567000P?prdNo=19&blockNo=19&blockType=G19

OR: http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-heavy...00994113000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=27&blockType=G27

The puller I brought from Sears was made by a machine tool company in Chicago,and is similar to the 2nd one above,but the center piece is very thick and looks more like the letter "Y" with several slots in it. It will work with all hubs from 3-1/2 inch to around 8 inch bolt patterns,including 8 lug drums on 1 ton. May even work on bigger drums,but I forget now. Do a web search using "hub puller,"manufacturer",and "Chicago",and you can find the company. I did once before.

Don't even THINK about getting that drum off with a slide puller. Not unless you are the incredible Hulk,and snorting meth.

Or any other lighter-duty tools or even heavy duty tools that aren't very similar in design. The light duty ones won't work,and the heavy duty ones can bend brake drums. Don't ask me how I know this.

AND...,make sure you put a little grease on the tapered axle and the inside of the hub when you reinstall it. The next person needing to remove the hub will appreciate it.

The good news is your great-grandchildren will never live long enough to wear one out if you buy the right one. These things are built to last virtually forever,and with what labor costs are today you can practically pay for a 200 dollar tool just by using it at home to pull two brake drums.
 
BTW,I went out to my workshop and dug the puller out to try to find the company name and model number,but it had no name on it,and the center piece had the number "600" on it,and the bar had the number "500". Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 
What you are describing sounds like the typical '64 and older smaller axle like the 8 3/4. Does this still apply for a 3/4 ton axle or a dually axle like most of the D200's came with?
 
Drum removal

Thanks for the helpful info. Mine is a 3/4 ton with the heavy rear axle. How does the sears puller attach to the drum? The studs are on the spindle right? So you can't pull on them to remove the drum. The puller had holes like you would attach by bolts but I can't see how that will work with this axle. Do I need to look for a heavy duty puller that has hooks to catch the drum? Thanks again for the advice, I hope I can get these drums off without breaking them... I'll let you know....Dave
 
Davemarais said:
Thanks for the helpful info. Mine is a 3/4 ton with the heavy rear axle. How does the sears puller attach to the drum? The studs are on the spindle right? So you can't pull on them to remove the drum. The puller had holes like you would attach by bolts but I can't see how that will work with this axle. Do I need to look for a heavy duty puller that has hooks to catch the drum? Thanks again for the advice, I hope I can get these drums off without breaking them... I'll let you know....Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,I am not familiar with the 3/4 ton rear axle you have if it doesn't have a small cover plate bolted to the "nose" of the brake drum that is the axle end that pulls out,and then two very large nuts holding the drum to the axle housing. The type of "floating axle" rear I am familiar with requires no puller. You just pull the axle out,unscrew the large nuts,pull out the outer bearings,and pull the drum off by hand. I can't find my Motors Truck Manual right now,so I can't look it up.

The arms on the puller I am talking about fits right over the lug bolts,and uses the lug nuts to hold it to the drum. The large center screw lines up with the axle end,and a smart move to make is to put the axle nut back on the axle end and back it off from being flush with the axle end just enough so the point on the puller center screw is held into place and centered. You lost me with the question about the studs being on the spindle.

Do NOT look for a heavy duty puller with hooks that attach behind the drum

R Front.jpg

See how the center of the brake drum sticks out on the front of my truck? If you have a center hub on your rear that extends out like this,just remove the bolts from the center,pull the axle out,then remove the two VERY large nuts that screw down over the end of the axle housing on each side,remove the bearings,and pull the drums off by hand.

If you can't pull them off by hand chances are the drums are worn and the brake shoes will have to be backed off so the drum will slip off without dragging on them. Do the drums spin freely? Do they make scraping sounds when they spin if they do spin? If you can't get the brake shoes to back off you can always cut the heads off the brake shoe "locator pins" that hold them to the backing plates,and then smack on the outside and sides of the brake drums with your BFH until you break them loose.

DO NOT USE A HEAVY-DUTY PULLER WITH HOOKS THAT CATCH THE OUTSIDE OF THE DRUM UNLESS YOU PLAN ON REPLACING THE DRUM. Those big pullers can bend and ruin the drum. Seriously. The apply a amazing amount of force.

Would it be possible for you to post a close up photo of your rear drums with the tires off so we have a better idea of what you are facing?

R Front.jpg
 
Arthur said:
Dave,I am not familiar with the 3/4 ton rear axle you have if it doesn't have a small cover plate bolted to the "nose" of the brake drum that is the axle end that pulls out,and then two very large nuts holding the drum to the axle housing. The type of "floating axle" rear I am familiar with requires no puller. You just pull the axle out,unscrew the large nuts,pull out the outer bearings,and pull the drum off by hand. I can't find my Motors Truck Manual right now,so I can't look it up.

The arms on the puller I am talking about fits right over the lug bolts,and uses the lug nuts to hold it to the drum. The large center screw lines up with the axle end,and a smart move to make is to put the axle nut back on the axle end and back it off from being flush with the axle end just enough so the point on the puller center screw is held into place and centered. You lost me with the question about the studs being on the spindle.

Do NOT look for a heavy duty puller with hooks that attach behind the drum

View attachment 1643

See how the center of the brake drum sticks out on the front of my truck? If you have a center hub on your rear that extends out like this,just remove the bolts from the center,pull the axle out,then remove the two VERY large nuts that screw down over the end of the axle housing on each side,remove the bearings,and pull the drums off by hand.

If you can't pull them off by hand chances are the drums are worn and the brake shoes will have to be backed off so the drum will slip off without dragging on them. Do the drums spin freely? Do they make scraping sounds when they spin if they do spin? If you can't get the brake shoes to back off you can always cut the heads off the brake shoe "locator pins" that hold them to the backing plates,and then smack on the outside and sides of the brake drums with your BFH until you break them loose.

DO NOT USE A HEAVY-DUTY PULLER WITH HOOKS THAT CATCH THE OUTSIDE OF THE DRUM UNLESS YOU PLAN ON REPLACING THE DRUM. Those big pullers can bend and ruin the drum. Seriously. The apply a amazing amount of force.

Would it be possible for
Click to expand...
 
Arthur, thanks for the last post, great information. My rear axle is set up to take duals if the truck had a flat bed. The axle is large as it goes thru the wheel rim, maybe 5" in diameter. I will get some pictures of it and post them so you can se what I am talking about. I will take the cover off the axle end and see if I can remove nuts and then the wheel like you describe. Thanks again....ain't it fun to work on these old trucks?......Dave
 
" I will take the cover off the axle end and see if I can remove nuts and then the wheel like you describe. "

There is a lock washer between the two nuts on each side that will have a "ear" bent over to keep the nut from loosening. You may have a little trouble seeing the bent over "ear" because of grease and not knowing to look for it,but trust me,it's there.

"Thanks again....ain't it fun to work on these old trucks?......Dave"

You're welcome,and yes,it IS fun working on them. I love it. I also love the fact that it gives me a excuse to buy more tools.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top