1972 Fargo build thread

[1972.Fargo]

Hi all, I just bought my dream truck, a 1972 Fargo D100. It's a longbox, 2wd, Adventurer Sport, 318 auto that came from a farm in Alberta. It's certainly in rough shape, but I'm looking forward to the project. This'll be my second project vehicle, my first being a 1975 Imperial, so I'm looking forward to the simplicity of a truck. So far I've managed to get it running, although I have to jump the starter relay, the fuel supply is from a gas can, it backfires every time I give it throttle, and it has no brakes. The not so short list of issues to fix goes something like this: fix the starter wiring, fix the in-cab wiring, fix the brakes, engine tune-up, put some tail lights in it, replace the windshield, replace the bumper, get the proper '72 grille, etc. Sourcing parts is going to be difficult, unfortunately here in Ontario parts are scarce as they've all rusted into the ground.
As I'm new to the Mopar truck world, and resources online are scarce, I'll likely be asking a lot of questions here.

 

[MILO]

That looks like a great project to restore I live in Erie county Pa and in the winter Garage is my second home different project every year car -truck or tractor I just got back the 67 GTX that I had when I was 17 and putting Power steering on it and looking in the fall for winter project. Im sure your truck will look great when done and not too many Fargos around

 

[1972.Fargo]

I'm on the hunt for a factory service manual, but until I find one, I've got some questions I hope somebody here could help with.
It seems like I'm getting limited power to the cab. My gauges, gauge lighting, dome light, and radio don't seem to work. My ignition switch, turn signal switch, and heater controls do work through. My headlight switch will turn on the parking lights, but not the headlights. All the fuses seem to be good. I do have to chase a bunch of broken wires around in my engine bay (old farm truck with a bunch of farm fixes), but would these symptoms be consistent with some sort of component failure? It might also be worth mentioning that my alternator is not currently working. I'm getting a parts list ready so I'm hoping to diagnose every problem that I can, the RockAuto shipping to Canada is not a fun bill to pay twice.

 

[MILO]

Sometimes the dimmer switch will cause headlight failure and make sure the cab is grounded and disconnect clean the balk head connector where it enters the cab at the firewall for starters

1972 Dodge Truck Service Shop Manual 72 Models 100-800 | eBay

Reprint1972 Dodge Truck Service Manual. This service manual has everything you need to work on your truck. It is in excellent to near mint condition, still sealed in original plastic wrap.

www.ebay.com

 

[kiwigtx]

So far I've managed to get it running, although I have to jump the starter relay, the fuel supply is from a gas can, it backfires every time I give it throttle, and it has no brakes.

Welcome to FTO from New Zealand.

When I first got my A100 it was pretty much the same deal.... fired up with gas from a bottle inside the cab, and the brake lines were dry & crusty. No time for brake fluid....off for a skid.

 

[1972.Fargo]

I have a bit of an update and some current plans for the truck. I've replaced all the brakes. 4 wheel drum brakes are a pain. To anyone wondering what to do as the front brake seem to incorporate the hub, they don't. The lug studs are "swedged" which doesn't allow the drum to be removed from the hub. I hammered out each lug stud then the hub was able to be removed. I didn't find a need to cut out the swedged portion or to swedge the new studs. a disc/drum master will also bolt right onto the booster, I used one I had lying around from a '78 New Yorker.
I've been working on removing the trim, I'd like to make this as basic as I can in terms of options. With that, I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the windshield, rear window, and roof trim. If anyone could help me with that, that would be great!

I've lost hope in the engine too, the 318 will run, although won't idle and seems to have a dead hole, all that along with the fact that I never wanted a 318 has lead me to attempt a slant-6 swap. I know this is backwards. Where it gets interesting is that I'll be taking the slant 6 from a John Deere swather. Once I get the engine I'll have to figure out what has to be done to convert it to an automotive application. I'm not sure if the accessories will work, if the oil pan will fit, what transmission will bolt up, etc. Which brings me to another plan: swapping out the old leaky 727 for an A-833OD. Along with this swap I'd also like to swap to manual steering and manual brakes.

The next thing I will be tackling on the truck is rewiring it, which seems basic enough. All the existing wiring is a mismatch of factory wiring, farmer wiring, or mouse nests, all of which don't have the best reputations. I figure it will be better just to redo it all. I'll probably be able to do a how-to post if I'm successful.