These are some shots I just took. Sheet metal is crudely in place & needs to be tweaked & adjusted properly. I do have the complete grill assembly in my basement except the sealed headlight bulbs. Also have some of the fender trim pieces.
Left fender is new. Cab & frame is super solid.
I'll be asking $4500 for it. I will get current pics of it right now with my digital camera as I haven't figured out how to download pics from my smart phone yet. Are there any specific things that you'd like to see pictures of?
I thought about that. I have too many things in my yard now. I have a 2001 V10 Dodge 2500 that I use for scrapping + 2 other vehicles & a car trailer.
The 86 is in really nice shape in all the major places, cab, frame, engine, interior, & I just figured a younger guy would be interested when I...
Well, I finally got a temporary ignition set up on this thing to see what it sounds like. YES, I did by-pass the fuel tank & ran a hose from the fuel pump pick up, to a gallon jug of fresh fuel, changed the oil & filter, pulled the ESC carb & installed one from a 69 D-200 I had, primed the...
Thanks for your excellent response. I wanted to make sure I wire it correctly. Hopefully, I'll have it up & running by the weekend. Thanks again for the help. Enjoy your weekend.
I am trying to get this truck up and running & the engine wiring harness has been chopped off. It has the big alternator on it (Leese-Neville? see picture) with a single plug with two wires coming from it, one green one blue. I'm switching over to a regular E/I instead of the ESC unit it once...
Yep! Any metalic is kind of hard to match, even for a pro painter, which I am not. I was just going to paint the inner fenders, bumper filler & radiator support before I install them. I will probably leave the fenders & hood in primer for now. Wiring it & firing it is the most difficult part...
I have a 1986 D-250 that I need to match the paint on. It's light metalic blue & definitely original paint. It does not have a code on the door jamb sticker or on the sticker I found in the glove box, which I believe is the one that was originally attached to the underside of the hood & the...
I have removed a bottom rear spring on each side (the short ones) on a 95 V8 Dakota that I bought new. That helped drop the rear end a bit with no other mod done to it. I've also heard of people heating up a coil to lower the front end a bit but, I've never done this myself. If you just want to...
I used a Hotchkis kit consisting of front & rear springs & Bilstein shocks on my 2000 Dakota. They have been on there for about 20 years now & have had no problems except, on the lower control arms, the factory bump stops are in a metal cup riveted to the lower control arm & they would bottom...
I am looking for a decent bed for an 86 Dodge P/U. I believe 81-93 are the same. I don't mind it being dented up somewhat, I just don't want any major rust/rot. Rust above wheel wells is OK as I know trying to find one without rust in this area is not easy to find in my area, plus I don't want...
From what I was told by the owner's nephew, it was in an accident & that's why the front-end sheet metal was removed by the guy. I don't know the full story but, in seeing the great condition this thing is in, I'll put an engine in it if I need to but, I don't think there's a problem with it...
Easier said than done. I don't know why it wasn't fixed. Lost interest maybe. I checked it over to see any frame damage & only found the right upper frame rail tweaked down a bit, that's it. If you look closely, you'll see the wire harness coming out of the cab has been cut off, along with some...
This thing is SUPER solid all around, especially for a Dodge truck from the rust belt. Sitting inside well over half its life surely helped it. I'm working on getting the seat out & will need a friend help doing so, as to not damage the mat or sound deadener with the studs of the seat. After I...
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