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It IS a 4-speed manual. NP-435 I think. It's a mid 80s 3/4-ton 2wd, 85-87 I'm pretty sure. I forget the year that was on the title, but I'll check next time for sure. I will have to clear a path to get it out of the warehouse & install one of the front wheels that is removed from it, (I don't...

I took off the spoiler, flares & I changed wheels to stock cheapie 2002 Dakota wheels that I bought new from a Chrysler dealer years ago. This is how it looks now. I like the look much better myself.

I'm still trying to get over to the warehouse that the truck is in for some pics, so you know I didn't forget about you. It's not going anywhere without me knowing about it first.

I like the Pistol Grip shifter. I would like to put one of these in MY Dakota. Is it from a B-Body bench seat car or is it custom made?

The truck is still available to me with the utility body, (Very much like the one in the picture above) & I can get you some pics, it just may take a couple weeks to get them. I don't get to stop by the warehouse it's in much lately. I would like to fix it myself, but I just don't have the time...

Looking for a radiator support in good shape for a 76 D-100 pick-up. I'm not sure which one's interchange but guessing 72-90 are pretty much the same. Let me know what's out there & the closer to S.E. Pa. the better. Shipping such a large bulky item will be pretty expensive for sure. Thanks.

I get what you're saying but, I'm not trying to make a race truck out of this thing, just a little more powerful street rod. It only has 51,000 miles on it. I don't drive it too much & I don't want to do to many alterations to it. I do have 275/60-15s out back & 255/60-15s up front. It will get...

Your points are well taken. The truck does have an H.D. 3:55 geared 9-1/4" Trac-Lok rear from the factory. I did build a cold air system for it & a cat back single exhaust. (I never liked dual tail pipes unless they were real duals from the manifolds back) I will probably go with 4:10 gears & an...

I did weigh it once, & I think I was around 35-3600lbs. I have been looking at some mods recently to it that are pretty cheap & not too difficult to do. Mainly intake, cams, stuff like that, from a 2008 & up 4.7s that had a lot more H.P. from the factory, over 300. I know a lot of Mopar guys...

You're probably right MILO. I should just leave well enough alone & hop-up the 4.7 that's in it.

Man, I wish I could look at it with you. It has to be a simple fix, we're just not seeing it.

Because it is TBI, (I had a new 90 D150) the computer adjusts the timing for best performance, the pick-up coil/cam sensor under the distributor cap & crank sensor, tell the computer when to fire the TBI depending on where they are on the engine cycle. Very similar to Magnum engines with MPFI...

Yep, still runs great, It'll get rubber in 3 gears pretty easy & never had any trouble with it, except sometimes I have to charge the battery because it may sit in my shed for a couple months. The thing only has 51,000 miles on it. I already have an old beater, a 73 Duster, but want to get...

Yeah, Haynes manuals aren't very good. I'm pretty sure it's means, to unplug the CTS, set timing to 10deg BTDC, lock the dist. down, shut the truck off & reattach the CTS sensor & you should be set to go.

I would think the 10deg. should be set with the sensor UNPLUGGED, but it should have the timing procedure under hood somewhere, I think.

Make sure ALL the ground straps are good & connected, bad grounds will cause problems. (ECU to body, engine to body, body to frame, engine to frame) NTK, same company that makes NGK spark plugs, make good stuff. I used their sensors on my 95 Dakota with good luck. (Rock Auto carries them.)

I have a super nice, low mileage 2000 V8 Dakota with the NP3500 transmission. I was thinking building a 360 Magnum engine to replace the current 4.7 V8. I thought about building a 3G HEMI for it, but it's just WAY more than I want to spend & more work that want to do since I'll be doing it...

In my opinion, good quality tools aren't cheap. Matco, Mac, Snap-on are some pretty expensive tools but, I paid the price & have a lot of their tools. They would come to the shop in their trucks full of stuff so, they came to you, you could make no-interest payments & you could use them right...

I did change the fluid & filter as soon as I saw the problem, as well as replacing the radiator itself. (Over $400 when all said & done) I had a slipping problem again & have since changed the fluid & filter 3 more times since. I didn't think it would help the last time I had the slipping...

It looks like a service truck body, like a plumber or electrician would have on a pick-up truck frame instead of a regular pick-up bed & they are usually steel.