Recent content by 1SykRyd

I came across this sketch of where the six links under the hood go (and their amps)... but it's for a '90 D150 with a Cummings and so I'm not sure it's accurate for my truck.

I picked up a straight and rust free '84 SWB frame for $100 last night. It didn't come with the axles, but it did include the fuel tank, both rear springs, and the rear driveshaft. I'm planning to sandblast and powder coat it matte black.

Thanks for the reply. I found a color chart for the fusible links in my '87 service manual showing the color used for the gauge of wire (e.g. black = 12g, red = 14g, dark blue = 16g, grey = 18g, and orange = 20g, etc.), but it doesn't list the amperage rating of the individual links, nor does...

Well... I've never really been a fan of the fuseable link, and to be perfectly honest I never understood why MoPar didn't just use a fuse block in the first place. So when I rescued what was left of this rust bucket '87 W150 from behind a barn... I decided to do a resto-rat mod on it instead of...

I want to replace the multiple connection fuseable link insulator under the hood of my truck with a fuse block. I'm thinking I need to cut the insulator from the battery feed, use that as the 12v input on the new fuse block, then remove the links and put a correct amp fuse in place of them. Is...

You know... I stand corrected. I was thinking the Class A Winne this whole time and I completely forgot all about the Minnie Winnie. And they did have long tail 727s... so they would be a direct bolt-in.

Do AllData wiring diagrams go back to 1987? I have a 360/AT W150 that I'm doing a ground up resto-rat-mod on. I need a clean layout of the entire electrical system. I have several ghosts to figure out (never did much care for Chrysler's fuse links).

Sweet... thanks for the link Rusty.

Yeah... you're right. I hadn't considered that. I am aware there may be differences in angles of the internal splines (it changed a couple times), but the angle you're thinking of is the spline that the front planet slides onto... and the closeness in years of the two transmissions means the...

I guess it's just a matter of personal taste really. Personally I never cared much for the swept-line look myself... or the 8' bed in either flavor. Nothing at all wrong with them... they just don't feel right to me when I look at them.

Actually nobody CAN bolt a /6 transmission behind a 440. It simply isn't possible. The transmission guts are the same, but the main body housings are completely different. The output shaft and the tail housing, on the other hand, ARE interchangeable... so all he needs to do is swap those parts...

The 170/225 slant 6 is an G/RG engine and the 273/318/340/360 are A/LA engines... both of which use the small block bolt pattern. The 383/400 are B-series engines and the 413/426/440 are RB engines... both of which use the big block bolt pattern. The two transmission bolt patterns are ABSOLUTELY...

It's not an easy swap... or an inexpensive one... but it can be done. You may want to consider getting all the parts you'll need BEFORE tearing your truck apart though. An area of concern to me is with the engine itself. Low RV miles do not always bode well for an engine. If the RV wasn't...

You're welcome. Chrome plating is an extremely hazardous, highly toxic, and very expensive process. If you're on a budget... another option might be in silvering them (similar to the method used to "chrome plate" plastics). There are several companies making DIY kits... but there is an...

I wasn't trying to be difficult. Sorry if I came off that way. Here's the link to the page that shows the running boards for both the 6' and 8' beds. The one for $35 is the 6' drivers side, but the most expensive of them is still less than $50. PICK UP BOX. BOX ASSEMBLY. RUNNING BOARDS...