Reviving an 87 D150

[Demonram]

The engine refresh is coming along well - getting all the pieces put back together now. Is there a well-known solution to the throttle linkage hookup when using an edelbrock intake and carb? Can I use the stock bracket? Seems like the throttle cable housing is a bit long, but with the placement of the bracket, the end doesn't quite reach the connection on the carb. Seems like there must be a simple fix...

And is one hole on the carb's throttle attachment better than another? I know I want to match the overall throw of the pedal with the rotation of that throttle attachment. Maybe I should just try to dig up a manuel on the carb.

Getting real close to firing it up. Just need to run new fuel line, reinstall the exhaust and wire up the new distributor and ignition module. Will post pics soon!

Good to hear of the progress. It‘ been a while switching the manifold and intake on one of these. I did do one on my 72 Plymouth. Edelbrock makes a throttle/kick down adapter for the carb. I used a Lokar cable for both. I did make the bracket but you might not have to. Take care bud and keep plugging along!

 

[Gustav]

Alrighty, a little update, though a lot has happened. I got all the major parts of the engine re-assembled. Still haven't wired up the new ignition module yet, but seems easy enough (famous last words). I found an adapter for the throttle and kickdown linkages, just need to adjust the bracket that holds them - move em over towards the valve cover an inch or so.

I think it's a cough away from first start!

Also, since I never uploaded nice quality photos of the truck overall, here are a few:

 

[Corey383]

Back in the day, before they sold out to Chevy. The big three would fight for the sponsorship of the race. Whoever got the bid would supply the trucks, cars, and pace car that year. The local dealerships would be able to sell special “Indy 500” edition cars and trucks. This could have been a truck used at the track or just sold at the dealership.

 

[7mopar]

Track vehicles had to meet certain specifications. I know my NASCAR book doesn't cover support vehicles. If Chrysler still had a historical department, they may hold the answer. I honestly don't know what information I have in the archives for that year.

 

[Gustav]

I reached out to the historical archives at Stellantis (who now owns Dodge), and their records only go up to 1967. So there's a gap between then the most recent records handled by their normal operations. So no dice on any info about this truck's first part of life. I did, however, run carfax, which says that this truck was in Bakersfield, CA as far back as 1998. No records before then. It explains the condition of the frame and body, that's for sure!


I have another Q for all you experts: I think I'm running into a wiring issue with a new ignition module and distributor, which is a Proform (this one, I believe: 1987 DODGE D150 Proform Parts 66991 Proform Electronic Distributors | Summit Racing). It seems to emulate the Mopar ignition modules. 5 wires run from the unit, one is not used.

It won't fire. Seems like the simplest wiring setup in the world, so I'm scratching my head a bit as to why it's not working. Here's how it's installed:

I hooked up the blue wire from the ignition module to the ballast resistor. Connected to that same terminal, I spliced in to the dark blue wire from the ignition, which seems like the main ignition feed (12v when key on, 0V when key off).

I spliced in to the Yellow wire form the ignition, run to the other terminal of the ballast resistor. Connected to that teminal, another wire goes to the positive side of the coil.

The negative side of coil connects directly to black wire from module.
The other two wires run to the distributor.

(As far as I can tell, I'm following the proform wiring diagram)

I've looked at a few wiring diagrams for this truck, and the two wires I've found seem to check out. But am I missing something? is there an old ignition module I should disconnect? The silver box on the firewall behind the dizzy?

I'm switching over from the Lean Burn system, would that make it trickier?
I've disconnected that computer entirely, and all other plugs that I can find in the engine bay other than alternator
Spark plugs are in the correct order, tight connections, distributor is lined up with Plug #1 at TDC
Engine block and ignition module are both are grounded
Ballast resistor has correct resistance (1.4 ohms)
When ignition is turned to "on", both terminals of ballast resistor have 12.5+V, when cranking, they have ~9-10V
I'm bottle feeding the carb with a little bit of fuel each start attempt, so there is fuel and air...
The carb could be way out of adjustment, I haven't gotten a sense of where the screws are.
I guess I should check if there's spark at one of the plugs first and foremost.

 

[7mopar]

When you say ignition module is grounded, what is it grounded to? Have you checked the ground with an ohm meter? Have you checked the battery to body ground and battery to engine block ground? Good grounds are a must for the system to work and work correctly. If the wiring is not connected to a module per the street rod installation it could be a problem.

 

[Gustav]

When you say ignition module is grounded, what is it grounded to? Have you checked the ground with an ohm meter? Have you checked the battery to body ground and battery to engine block ground? Good grounds are a must for the system to work and work correctly. If the wiring is not connected to a module per the street rod installation it could be a problem.

Yeah, you're right to ask about that. I did check with am ohm-meter. Both unit and engine have good ground.

I believe I've followed the "street rod" wiring setup to the letter, but maybe i missed something? For both of the run and start wires, I'm just splicing into them, and they continue on to their normal routes - should I be cutting them, running them into the ballast resistor and then from there continuing them to their normal routes?



I tried flipping the distributor 180 degrees, nothin. Put it back to where I had, as I am 95% sure I got that right.

New cam, new carb, new ignition system, so it's possible there's another issue going on.

 

[7mopar]

You 100% positive the cam has been timed correctly?

 

[65 sporty]

I put one of these on a 87 D150 last year, easy to use. I even mounted it in a similar location.
Let's see if I can help, your blue wire from the ignition box needs to be connected to 12v ignition in the on and crank position. I used the ignition wire that powered the old ballast resistor and it should be blue. The other side of the ballast resistor goes to the positive side of the coil and I spliced into the 12v ignition only during cranking at the starter relay and ran it here also, it should be yellow per your factory diagram. This gives the coil full 12v only during cranking when you let off the key it runs voltage through the ballast resistor to the coil. If you have the rest connected like the street rod diagram you should get spark. I ran a ground wire from the back of the cylinder head to the bolt holding the ignition box to the fender well.

 

[Gustav]

I put one of these on a 87 D150 last year, easy to use. I even mounted it in a similar location.
Let's see if I can help, your blue wire from the ignition box needs to be connected to 12v ignition in the on and crank position. I used the ignition wire that powered the old ballast resistor and it should be blue. The other side of the ballast resistor goes to the positive side of the coil and I spliced into the 12v ignition only during cranking at the starter relay and ran it here also, it should be yellow per your factory diagram. This gives the coil full 12v only during cranking when you let off the key it runs voltage through the ballast resistor to the coil. If you have the rest connected like the street rod diagram you should get spark. I ran a ground wire from the back of the cylinder head to the bolt holding the ignition box to the fender well.

Yeah, that's exactly how I've got it routed as well, minus the extra ground wire.

 

[Gustav]

You 100% positive the cam has been timed correctly?

I lined it up dot to dot, distributor was at the #6 spark plug. I rotated a few times, checked that it was both dots at 12 o'clock when dizzy was at #1 spark plug, and it returned to dot to dot before installing the timing cover. Seemed good to me then.

 

[Gustav]

Ok, so now here's a a weird one. I checked my wiring for the ignition module, didn't change a thing, and now when I turn the key to run (not start), the starer motor engages and it turns over. Not what it should be doing, obviously. I'm thinking this is going to lead me to the issue, whatever it is.

I'm pulling from the the main power (dark blue) and start (yellow) wires to the ballast resistor from under the dash. But this also happens when the start wire is connected to the starter relay instead. It's like the key "on" is jumping the starter relay.

It doesn't do this if I disconnect the wiring from either terminal of the ballast resistor - it only cranks when ignition is turned to start.
So... is the ballast resistor not resisting?

 

[7mopar]

Ballast resistor from under dash. How did that get there? Why is ignition 1 connected to the starter relay? Maybe someone that understands your combination of parts can help out.

 

[7mopar]

I lined it up dot to dot, distributor was at the #6 spark plug. I rotated a few times, checked that it was both dots at 12 o'clock when dizzy was at #1 spark plug, and it returned to dot to dot before installing the timing cover. Seemed good to me then.

So while checking cam timing did you happen to also check valve timing to make sure the intake was indeed closing as number 1 was firing?

 

[Gustav]

Ballast resistor from under dash. How did that get there? Why is ignition 1 connected to the starter relay? Maybe someone that understands your combination of parts can help out.

I'm pulling power from the wires under the dash, on the ignition harness. I installed the ballast resistor on the firewall in the engine bay (tI can't find one in the original wiring - this was a lean burn system from factory). Ignition 2 is connected to the starter relay, per the wiring diagram above.

So while checking cam timing did you happen to also check valve timing to make sure the intake was indeed closing as number 1 was firing?

I didn't, but I can certainly do that now. Thanks.

 

[7mopar]

Ok, finally looked this up to see what it actually is. I will post some test procedures latter and wiring diagram that I have used over the years.

 

[Gustav]

Alright, did some tests and got it - the truck runs!

First, took the coil positive, and re-routed it directly from battery positive, no ballast resistor. No dice.
But, the cranking while on ignition 1 did go away.

Then, I threw in the old coil, with the same wiring setup. Bam! started right up. Starter only engages on ignition 2.
So my brand new aftermarket coil is just...bad. That is a bummer.
But the good news is that it runs great, and it sounds good (even with open manifolds)!

So, still gotta diagnose the weird cranking condition, but at least I have some clues - and I know I didn't mess us the cam or distributor timing.

We'll see if I can get it ironed out. I still have all of the little loose ends to tie up before I can drive it. A working throttle pedal would be nice...

 

[7mopar]

Took a picture and got all my paperwork together just to find you have it figured out.
This is where my ecu is mounted and ballist are mounted.

 

[volaredon]

And I just found out the steering column is ruined junk on my 85 d150 revival. More "past owner interference"
Lotsa missing parts once I pulled the steering wheel.
I went in to replace the ignition switch (electric part not key tumbler part) because it has a lot of it's travel and "spring back" something I used to see a lot of when these trucks were more plentiful
These columns were stupid simple, don't know how idiots can screw one up so bad.


my wiring was horrible. 3 changes of color and gauge size for the big "hot" off the alternator in the length of a/6 valve cover
Just crudely twisted and half azz taped, not even wire nuts. Or scotch locks (which I despise) and several blown fusible links. I rewired from scratch, starting with a much better-shape harness from a junkyard truck.

 

[volaredon]

Not saying yours is as bad as mine was,
just a warning to beware of what they call "previous owner interference"