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Tired Of Trouble Shooting.

BIGED

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Hello All, So I have a 1974 Dodge D100 Custom Street Truck, I'll post up some photos soon, it has a 360 Magnum that I believe is out of a 2001 or 02 Dodge Ram 1500. Man I'm tired of trying to fix this issue... after it has been sitting all night its tough to restart and once it does start it has a loud sucking noise through the throttle body and then it evens out and surges a bit, the throttle body parts have all been replaced, new electric fuel pump plus new fuel regulator with pressure around 50, I'm running a duel snorkel ram air breather and headers only, I've had people tell me that the computer needs to be programed and now I'm confused as I've been given a lot of different information... at this point I'm tired of trouble shooting the problem, can anyone recommend a performance shop? Thx.
 

65 sporty

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Used engine or rebuilt? I am assuming your running the factory computer and injection. I have seen plenty of gaskets under the barrel intake get sucked out
 

7mopar

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Are we to assume all required sensor have been retained or have you installed some sort of aftermarket EFI?
 
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Anytime you hear a sucking noise you have a vacuum problem. Like the other guys said, check all the gaskets in the intake, throttle body base etc. You'll find it! Also check all the hoses. They crack with heat and age. If they are hard, replace them.
 

AJ.

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My guess is your AIS motor is wide open. which is easy to prove.
If the sucking sound starts to diminish right after the engine starts up, then the programming is dialing it back, which would be the right thing for it to do.
It sounds to me like one or more of your injectors are draining the fuel line overnight., causing a flooded condition. The Wide open AIS motor on a cold start is common, and probably normal. It provides the fast-idle during warm up.
A powerful coil might help. But probably not.
Don't forget that EFI cars dump a shot of fuel into the intake/ports every time you turn the key to the "start" position. So if, I say IF, you are sawing on the key, yur causing the flooding. Just crank it until it fires up, do not saw on the key. If it takes more than 15 seconds of cranking, something is wrong, and yur gonna need to put a scanner on it.
One thing you can try is to pull a few plugs out, in the morning, BEFORE you crank it; and see if they are gas-fouled. If they are NOT fouled, then as mentioned, your plenum-gasket may be out of place. Hughes engines sells a more robust plate and gasket kit.
But my money is on gas-fouled plugs due to leaking injectors.
Well, I suppose the EFI Temp sensor could be giving a bad reading, or the Baro; but the scanner will find that in just minutes. Either of those would call for a fatter pump-shot on a cold engine. Then if you saw on the key....... well she's drowning..... Oklahoma City is at 1200 ft elevation, so it wouldn't take much of a Baro/Map/Maf whatever she's got, sensor-error to cause flooding.

Edit
on a cold-start, the O2s are ignored by the computer. They won't start working until a pre-progtammed coolant temp is seen by the ECM ............. unless the sensor is lieing. As in somebody modified it, or maybe it broke. Any sensor malfunction or one that is sending out of range data will turn the MIL lite on. So, if your lite is on, you gotta put a scanner on it. Buy one and learn to interpret it. If you have headers and do NOT have working O2s, yur just asking for trouble. And you better have installed an IAT sensor in your fancy snorkel. And a working Map/Maf/Baro, which in concert with the rpm sensor, are the two most important sensors on your system.
And finally, the cam sensor on those engines are a known problem . The ECM only checks it during cranking, looking to find the compression stroke of #1 cylinder, so it can begin injecting . After the engine starts and you release the key, it never looks at that sensor again until the next cranking cycle. If the ECM cannot find that signal, your engine will not start. It takes at least one or two engine revolutions to establish that signal.
Same with the Baro sensor, it only checks it during cranking. But the engine will run with a faulty one, albeit not very well at 1200ft elevation.
I agree with 7mopar, below in post #8
 
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7mopar

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My guess is your AIS motor is wide open. which is easy to prove.
If the sucking sound starts to diminish right after the engine starts up, then the programming is dialing it back, which would be the right thing for it to do.
It sounds to me like one or more of your injectors are draining the fuel line overnight., causing a flooded condition. The Wide open AIS motor on a cold start is common, and probably normal. It provides the fast-idle during warm up.
A powerful coil might help. But probably not.
Don't forget that EFI cars dump a shot of fuel into the intake/ports every time you turn the key to the "start" position. So if, I say IF, you are sawing on the key, yur causing the flooding. Just crank it until it fires up, do not saw on the key. If it takes more than 15 seconds of cranking, something is wrong, and yur gonna need to put a scanner on it.
One thing you can try is to pull a few plugs out, in the morning, BEFORE you crank it; and see if they are gas-fouled. If they are NOT fouled, then as mentioned, your plenum-gasket may be out of place. Hughes engines sells a more robust plate and gasket kit.
But my money is on gas-fouled plugs due to leaking injectors.
Well, I suppose the EFI Temp sensor could be giving a bad reading, or the Baro; but the scanner will find that in just minutes. Either of those would call for a fatter pump-shot on a cold engine. Then if you saw on the key....... well she's drowning..... Oklahoma City is at 1200 ft elevation, so it wouldn't take much of a Baro/Map/Maf whatever she's got, sensor-error to cause flooding.
That's why I asked about sensors. Without the original air intake or exhaust. It will not run right after closed loop without the proper sensors to tell open loop what to do.
I think there is something the OP is not willing to share here and with out it we are just drawing straws.
 

Slap Stick

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If all is well, turn the key to ON. The fuel pump will run until the system is pressurized fully. You will probably hear the relays (if you transferred the wiring from the donor truck). Then turn the key to start. It should fire within three revs.
Have you checked for a bad plenum gasket yet? This will cause hard to no start.
 
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