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Gunshot 22
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
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Location
Penns-Woods USA
Hi everyone,
Im sure its been posted before, Heater blower in-op! No A/C on Truck, '79 W100. Switch does nothing but heater core is hot so the coolant is doing its job. The Fan, she just ain't spinn'in! Fuse good, whats next? Now before I start replacing parts where can I use a tester or Multimeter to isolate problem? Thanks Larry!
PS Picture on the way!
 
It's either the fan switch or the resistor that's on your heater box . Most of the time it's the switch . Check to make sure it isn't burnt in the back and see if your getting juice in and out of it at all speeds . I just thought of one other kinnda obvious thing . Blower motor either bad or not grounded properly . With the blower switch on ( and key on ) see if you have juice at the feed wire as well as checking the ground .
 
Thanks! Nailed it, after looking further into the fuse box area I noticed that the fuse holder clips were melted! Time for the ammeter bypass job. Found the resistor is shot cause its stuck on high speed when I finally got it running. The fan turned but needed persuasion, good rap or two with the pliers. But the main culprit was the switch. I traced the circut from the fuse box, after I repaired it, out to the fan. After I eliminated the fan and the "always on high" reistat, I hotwired the switch. It worked on an off again on again basis. Damn near drove me crazy! But I got it....and with your help! thanks bear. Im getting cleaned up and then gonna post some pics. Boy I love this toy!!!
 
I did get a box of used parts w/truck when I bought it including a heater blower and a reistat that when hooked up is stuck on low fan speed? If the old fan needs more persuasion again I'll swap it out. We will see maybe tomorrow if I get snow here!? Previous owner knew something was wrong.
 
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The blower motor on a Dodge is a single speed and the speed is reduced by passing current through the resistor. The spring like resistance wire gets hot, turning some of the energy into head and dropping the voltage. With the lower voltage, the motor spins slower. So if the motor runs full tilt but not otherwise, that's a sign the resistance wire is broken or the connection inside the switch is bad. If the motor only runs at the slower speed, then either the contacts inside the fan switch are cruddy and need to be cleaned, the switching mechanism inside the swtich is busted or the bearings are dragging on the motor. The squirrel cage fan should spin easily and continue to spin for a few seconds after you give it a good twrill. If the bearings are dragging, most older small, direct current motors can be disassembled and the bronze bushings greased. If you can't get the motor apart because it's pressed together, you can sometimes get enough lubricant into the fan end by adding a drip aaround the shaft with the motor in the vertical position, spin it, add more and so on. On the opposite end, you can drill a small hole in the center of the protrusion where the end of the shaft is and add a few drips of motor oil. Grease is the perfered lubricant, but WD40 is ok for getting things loosened up and then using a heavy grade motor oil.

I can't remember if the fan motor can be disassembled or not. As for telling a single speed motor apart from those that actually have high and low speed windings, the single speed will have 2 wires, a ground and a hot wire. True multi speed motors will have 3 wires on a 2 speed and 4 on a 3 speed. These days, nearly all 3 or more speed motors use a rheostat and single speed motor. To test the fan motor itself on a Dodge, all you have to do is disconnect the + wire plastic connector at the firewall and run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to it. The motor should run full tilt. If it doesn't run, then the motor is probably shot and if it runs slowly, then the bearings are probably dragging and need lubing.
 
Thanks to all, I do have it running but at full speed only. Thats ok for now. The above mentioned box of parts that came with the truck had a resistor, a blower fan motor, and the bezel for the dash that goes around the heater control switches. The previous owner must have been to a yard cause I got enough parts to start the "Priority"
fixes. Im going to look at the fan switch again. I have that old gut feeling that it may need cleaning or replacement. It did a little hesitation when I was moving it around from in behind the dash. I'll clean it first and see if gives me any grief. Also I did hook up the spare resistor and the motor only ran on the slow speed? I'm wondering if that needs to be bolted back into the heater box to make it function or is it junk too? is there a published resistance that I can check accross the terminals? It just seems weird that one is all fast and the other all slow speed? Guesses? Oh yea only one ground and one power wire to the motor which seems free?
 
My 1980 truck only worked on High when I bought it a year ago. The problem was a blown thermal protection fuse on the blower resistor board. I seem to recall it shorts rather than opens when it blows, forcing the fan to high. I couldn't locate a replacement so I removed it. It looks like a small bullet. Now I got 3 fan speeds but no thermal protection, but its been working for close to a year. I guess if I smell something burning I'll just turn it off.
 
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