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Fuel gauge issue

Fixitmg

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
Messages
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Location
Eagle River Alaska
I have a fuel gauge problem that seems simple but still isn't working for me.
I have a 78 snow commander, (I love this Machine)The dash has melted from the amp meter, and can't find another
The sending unit in fuel tank sends a restricted ground to the gauge depending on the amount of fuel in the tank when I bought a aftermarket gauge it should be sending a grounding signal to the gauge but the gauge reads full and I know the truck is about half
I have measured and it dose change resistant depending on the fuel level.
There has to be a way to make this aftermarket gauge work with the factory sending unit.
Has anyone got any ideas
 
You need a gauge that has a range of 10-70 ohms to work. See what your new gauge is. Then go from there.
 
If you have trouble with your after market gauge it's possible to fix an old original one. Even with a bad looking exterior, the interior is often still operational

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Most problems come from connection between inside and outside of the tank. It can be fix easily by tin soldering

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Check resistant before reinstall. Should be near 10 (full) and 70 (empty) as told you Mr.Mopower.

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As a final touch I use the interior of an oil filter to protect aspiration hole

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Factory gauge sending units have the resistor windings not linear. Aftermarket sending units have the sending unit wound linear. this causes gauge reading problems. There is a device (meter match) that is supposed to fix this problem. I have never used one, so can't say how good they are.
 
So I have ordered the correct aftermarket gauge with the correct OHMs, I never knew that about fuel gauges, I ASSUMED a fuel gauge was gauge like a volt meter, it didn't matter. So i have to thank you guys for the help, when the new gauge comes in i will install it and let you guys know.
 
Factory gauge sending units have the resistor windings not linear. Aftermarket sending units have the sending unit wound linear. this causes gauge reading problems. There is a device (meter match) that is supposed to fix this problem. I have never used one, so can't say how good they are.
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Interesting product but price is not enough friendly to buy one just for testing :(
 
Okay gentlemen, The next/current new gauge came in and I installed it and it's better BUT, it reads back words from what I need. At empty it wants to see 70 ohms and full it wants 10ohms. This is back words from what I need.
So the truck has 70 ohms full and 10 ohms empty, which I have measured and know the sending unit is correct.
I have checked on line and can't find a gauge that reads as the truck needs, so is there something I am missing?
This gauge that I just purchased will sweep the gauge as needed but it is back words, when full it reads empty and at empty it reads full. Is there a converter or does anyone know of the exact gauge to use.
The current gauge I bought even had reviews that said they had used it on their old dodge and it worked fine
 
You keep saying "gauge". What did you get? The sender (goes in the tank) or the gauge (goes in the dash)?
The Mopar sender (in the tank) should be about 70 ohms at empty, and about 10 ohms at full. Can you show us what you got? either a picture or what make and part number of the gauge?
 
I don't see the problem. The gauge works and you know it's quark. I drove a Chevy with a Dodge dash for years. Ok, so it made gas untill the tank was empty. Everyone whom drove it knew it worked that way.
I consider it theft prevention. No reason to take a truck with little fuel in it.
 
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