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First time truck owner - '87 D150

Gustav

Active Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2022
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Location
Upstate NY
Hi all,

Just picked up my first truck a few months ago, a 1987 Dodge D150. 318, automatic, 2WD longbed. I've been searching for a good place for info on Mopars, and really happy to have found this forum. The truck: it's truly rust free, was lowered by the previous owner, but has had some serious mechanical issues. I solved a few already, but many more to go. Drove it around long enough to pick up a free motorcycle with it! And then a head gasket blew, haha. Figure it's probably best to pull the motor and do all the gaskets and freeze plugs, etc with it. Though if anyone wants to persuade me otherwise, I am all ears. Also hoping to replace the 2 barrel with a 500-600cfm 4 barrel and a better flowing intake.

I'll be posting progress in the restoration/build threads sometime soon.


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Welcome aboard from NJ Gustav. Wow, that truck is really in good shape for a vehicle that is 35 years old. Best of luck with your plans. 👍
 
Welcome man. I like your truck. I just sold an 86 318 d150 last year. They're getting harder to come by. Enjoy your project!
 

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How many miles on the 318? If your going to pull it out it would be a good time to check everything out.
Also welcome to the site.
 
How many miles on the 318? If your going to pull it out it would be a good time to check everything out.
Also welcome to the site.
Thanks! The odo is a 5 digit so, assuming it's rolled over once, it's got 102,500.
 
At least change the timing chain. Otherwise it could run another 100,000.
Blown head gaskets are not common to older engines. I would check the block and head with a straight edge.
If this is a newer magnum send the heads out and have them checked for cracks.
 
At least change the timing chain. Otherwise it could run another 100,000.
Blown head gaskets are not common to older engines. I would check the block and head with a straight edge.
If this is a newer magnum send the heads out and have them checked for cracks.

hmm, interesting. I *assumed* that coolant spewing from around and out of the exhaust manifold would be the head gasket (was also idling very poorly, smoke out the back all of sudden, which all seem like telltale signs). But then again, it was a bit of an assumption... I did have to replace a freeze plug on the engine, which was badly rotten. Are there freeze plugs right around the manifold, or above it? I'd much rather just replace a plug!

It's a 318, LA block, from what I've gathered. Good looking out on the timing chain, will take a peek at that too.
 
No plugs on the block that would allow coolant in. Coolant does flow threw the intake.
Do you have the equipment to do a compression or leak down test?
 
Check out the local pick a part and craigslist or even fakebook for a cheap Magnum to swap in. Can be had for $100-200 and will be livelier than the LA. Just a thought.

Nice looking truck, hard to find one rust free of that vintage.
 
With the 87 it's almost there for 318's. One more year and it would have been roller cam and EFI.
Just for the information when did the head and intake design change?
 
Check out the local pick a part and craigslist or even fakebook for a cheap Magnum to swap in. Can be had for $100-200 and will be livelier than the LA. Just a thought.

Nice looking truck, hard to find one rust free of that vintage.
Yeah, I've thought about that, for sure. May end up going that route, but part of me is into the idea of keeping the engine in it and just making it a little peppier, smoother, etc. It didn't feel like it was too low on power after a tune up, and I do want to keep it carbureted.
 
Not sure why you want to keep it carbureted other than the looks. By 85 most carbs were computer controlled to some extent and most never worked all that well.
 
Not sure why you want to keep it carbureted other than the looks. By 85 most carbs were computer controlled to some extent and most never worked all that well.
I hear ya. Looks aren't really a consideration for me... EFI is definitely on my mind, but the price difference is considerable. Unless i do swap in a junkyard magnum. Carbs are just so much simpler, and since I'm usually working on newer VWs and other european cars, I like how easy carbs are to work on. I guess there's a tradeoff - you usually have to work on them more! But that's not too much of an issue for me. We'll see
 
Yeah, I've thought about that, for sure. May end up going that route, but part of me is into the idea of keeping the engine in it and just making it a little peppier, smoother, etc. It didn't feel like it was too low on power after a tune up, and I do want to keep it carbureted.
They make a carb intake for the magnum that's around $200. No need for electronics you don't want, if you decide to go that route in the future. I understand keeping it original.
 
If you decide also to go the magnum route be carefully with the selection.
Some required the computer to drop cylinders and for valve timing. Not sure if those can be used without the computer.
 
i hear you on keeping the carb, i'm doing that myself primarily to eliminate any need for computer control. As to what you said about coolant around and out of the area of the exhaust manifold, that could be a result of the freeze-out plug itself, if it was corroded. At temerature under pressure, it could have been spraying on the exhaust. Does sound to me though like a head gasket, considering the smoke out the exhaust and lack of power. i have a 318-2v in mine, i am considering upgrading. i talked to guys from Edelbrock and Trick Flow last year in Norwalk, so i have info on going stock or upgrading to aftermarket (the aftermarket route is more 'spensive, of course, but serious power upgrade). For you, i would stick with stock even you want to do an overhaul. Given the mileage, might not be a bad idea. You can still keep it mostly stock, but replacing all the crank and rod bearings, seals, head gaskets, timing chain, checking all the valve springs, cam, etc, would assure you of another 100+ K miles
 
That engine unless it's gotten hot or run without oil should be good for 250,000 easy with just a timing chain change.
 
Thanks everybody, just the words of encouragement I needed. The weather might be warmer this weekend, so I'll see if I can't dig into this thing and take a look at what caused the issue.

I started a build thread, might make more sense to follow over there (plus more photos): Reviving an 87 D150
 
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