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Did 318 intake, now fires and dies.

Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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Jul 19, 2014
Messages
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Location
North Branch, MN
Weird. I did the intake because it was leaking oil, and badly. The guys at work made a workorder with an environmental clean up charge on it. Pretty simple on a 318. It's in my 83 Ramcharger. I drove it into the shop, replaced the intake gaskets and valve covers, cleaned it all off and changed the oil. I did not remove the distributor. I turn the key and it fires then dies. Over and over fire and die. I checked the fuel flow and the pump is pumping. I tried spraying carb cleaner and that won't keep it running. I checked and rechecked the firing order, and the wires are all correct. I changed the ballast resistor and it changed nothing. Any ideas? It should be a walk in the park. Drive in, do intake,. drive out. It's pissing me off. Any help would be appreciated.
 
New development. I wasn't seeing any power at the input to the ballast. I messed around with the terminal and got power. I hooked the jumper and had power to the other end of the jumper. I plugged it in to the output and lost all power, in and out. After a few seconds I got power again. I plugged in the ballast and got 12v in and 7v out. It started and died. However, While I was cranking, I held it in crank mode and goosed the gas. It ran and revved just fine until I let off the key, then it died. I checked and there was no in or out power at the ballast. What feeds the ballast? Is there a breaker or fuseable link in line somewhere? Anyone have a wiring diagram?
 
Check the ignition switch for run mode power. You still have the start circuit, that is why it starts and dies. Both provide power to the ballast resistor. An easy test would be to disconnect the power side of the ballast resistor and run a jumper wire to it directly from the battery and start.
What type of ignition is your RamCharger using? Lean burn, electronic ignition ECU or old type points.
This will help solve the ignition problem.
 
Forgot that you will have to disconnect the jumper wire to turn it off if it starts and stays running.
 
Factory ignition. Electronic ECU, vacuum advance distributor. I have an MSD 6AL2 box I was going to use when I drop in the 440. Maybe I should use that and solve all my issues.
 
The electronic box buy passes the ballasts while in start mode. There should be current to the coil in the run mode. If not bypass the ballast. If it starts and runs replace the ballast.
In the process of changing the intake gaskets did the engine to firewall ground strap get remove and not reinstalled?
The ECU must be grounded to function properly.
 
No. The only ground strap that was removed was the negative battery cable to the front of the head. I'll run battery power tomorrow. If it runs I know there is a wiring problem that I'll have to chase down. If I run the MSD box I'd want to lose the vacuum advance distributor, and I really don't want to spend money on the small block when the 440 is almost done.
 
Mopar to ya said:
If I run the MSD box I'd want to lose the vacuum advance distributor, and I really don't want to spend money on the small block when the 440 is almost done.
Click to expand...


I have an MSD 6A and still use vacuum advance. No need to jettison it. Why would you not use it? Going for full vacuum right off idle? Just wondering.
 
I'm betting there's a bad connection either at the bulkhead block or at the plug for the ballast resistor . Do you have the four plug or the two plug ballast ? Also like 7Mopar said , Make sure you have a good block to body ground strap ( normally on the passenger side rear from back of block to firewall ) .
 
I have a two prong ballast. My MSD box is programmable and you have to lock out all mechanical and vacuum advance. You basically lock the distributor and let the box do all the timing curves that you have programmed in.
 
I found intermittent power at the input to the ballast resistor. I was testing it and had no light and when I wiggled the huge mass of wires the light came on. I wiggled it back and forth and the light went on and off. So I know I have a bad wire somewhere in that mass of taped wires. I figured it went to the bulkhead connector and started wiggling the bigger wires one by one and found the problem on the second wire. I haven't repaired it yet, but I wiggled it to a spot where I had a constant light, turned the key and it fired right up and stayed running. I just have to fix the wire or connector, whichever it turns out to be, and I'm good to go. Thanks for all the help everyone!
 
Yah got to love Mopars and there electrical systems ! :confused: lol Glad to hear you found the problem . :cool:
 
I finally found time to track down the issue. The interior spade terminal on the bulkhead connector was too loose and not allowing the male end to seat tightly. I could wiggle the wire and it would power off and on. Let me just say that the working quarters were extremely tight. I couldn't get two hands on the wire and almost decided to pull the seat for more room. I finally got hold of it with a long handled, angled needlenose and was able to slide a male terminal in it and then crimp the female end tight around it. I put the bulkhead connector on and pushed the female end on from the inside afterwards. It fits tight and I no longer can wiggle the wires and loose connection. It also starts and runs very nicely. I'm driving it home tomorrow, and to a car show on Monday.
 
Something told me it was in the bulkhead . Glad you got it fixed . Good luck and safe travel's this weekend .
 
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