1979 Dodge D100 battery dimensions

[jippek]

Hello,

I will be getting our D100 from the shipping terminal on Wednesday and like to get the new battery before seeing the car --> what size battery fits as a standard? And which way are the terminals? That information was not available in the FSM. In Finland they usually carry only general batteries and I would need to know those before going into parts store.

thanks,

JP

 

[bear]

I don't have the measurements on hand but I can give a quick measurement when I'm out there later working on mine later . But I can tell you that the tray is bigger then the battery it's self . I run a Yellow top because that's the only one that will crank my 440 . As for what side the post are on . If your facing the battery with the post closest to you the Pos. is on your left ( towards the firewall ) . Installed the post will be on the engine side and it takes a top post battery .

 

[jippek]

Ok thanks. In Finland the alternatives for batteries are very limited and I took now the midsize battery with me, I can take it back if it doesn't fit. The main thing is that I can charge it over night and hope that it'll fit. And if it doesn't, oh well, we have the trailer with us

I'll post tomorrow how it went.

JP

 

[bear]

You ahould'nt have an issue , just as long as you get one with the post's on the correct side's . Over all the tray is 14" long but there's a couple of little tabs that bend up in the bottom of the tray and from inner lip to those tabs comes out to about 12" . Width wise it's 8" and inner lip to inner lip is about 6 1/2" .

 

[bear]

So did you get the truck home yet ?

 

[jippek]

I sure did.

Seeing for the first time:

My plans for driving the car home (about 150 miles) were destroyed by the fact that both wipers and the blower did not work. And of course it rained heavily for the whole day. So we ended up starting the engine (with the old battery first) to drive it on the trailer and it did have some difficulties getting gasoline, but when poured directly to carb it started immediately. And quite soon started running smoothly.

After getting the trailer ready for the car, it started running very poorly. Did not start investigating what was wrong, but after getting it home and took the air cleaner out --> all the wiring for the electric choke where loose, the choke was on all the time. So when the engine heated up, it did not run properly. Also the Californian emission equipment had been partly taken away and more female connectors loose than I could find the males.

The reason for the wipers not working was the missing rubber bushings in the linkage. All had disappeared. And under the cowl had almost 40 years old leafs etc.

All the plastic have been under heavy weather, the washer bottle is one example.

 

[jippek]

4 pics per message is a little challenging for me...

So anyway, I am in process of changing the Q-jet carb to Holley and at same time I thought of checking this bypass hose, which looked a bit weird.

.

And also took the heater core hose from the water pump and it looks pretty messy. So now it turned out that it was actually a good fortune that I could not drive it home. If that slime would have started moving, a flushing would probably not worked anymore... And of course change the water pump...

Other than that, I am doing the ammeter bypass and fixing all the wiring problems and hope to get it running by the end of the week.

 

[bear]

Wow , Sorry to hear about the surprise issues . That truck must have been sitting for a while . But don't get to discouraged . It look's like you have a really solid foundation there . All that other stuff can be straightened out . The wiper bushing aren't no big deal . Just grab your shop Vac and a blow gun and get all the leaves and such out of there first . You might even want to consider pulling your heater box . Because if it's that built up there I can only imagine what the inside of the box looks like . As far as the cooling system go's . I'd plan on changing out all those hoses including that bypass hose that's ready to blow . The water pump and thermostat . And flush "everything" . Personally , judging by what I see , I'd flush everything individually and then again as a unit . Just to be safe . Good luck with it and please keep us posted on your progress . I really do like it .

 

[jippek]

Yes if I understand the title correct, it has been set to salvaged status in 2003. That heater box removal is a good idea. I vac'd it from the hatch, but I suppose the vac did not reach all the way through.

Got all the new hoses today (except the lower went for backorder) and some others e.g. horns and the q-jet to holley adapter. Should have couple of busy days with it and still aiming to test drive in the weekend. Depends a lot whether the lower hose will arrive on Friday or not.

 

[bear]

Pulling the heater box isn't that hard on that truck . The nuts that hold it in are on your fire wall and if you slide the glove box out you'll pretty much see the whole unit . I bet if you pull that out and open it up you'll find a lot of the same leaves and twigs in there as well . While you have it out it would be real easy to flush out the heater core as well . You got the correct bypass hose correct ? I just ask because I've seen people try and use just a piece of heater hose and have it kink in the middle were it has to make the bend down . As far as using the adapter for the carb . It's just a suggestion but you might want to keep your eye's open on a good deal on a aluminum duel plain for it . Like I said that's just a suggestion for later on . That way you can clean up and get rid of a lot of that Californian emission's crap . Plus it will up your performance a little better . Which always helps .

 

[bear]

This is what your motor would look like without all that stuff on top of it and a duel plane . See how easy it would be to work on then ?