Before you go all "herd mentality" with that "Bypass" BS, please check out the youtube link and listen and think about what this gentleman has to say about Chrysler electrical circuits. He knows what he's talking about unlike most so called experts on forums. As I remember, he is retired from...
Well, all my comments were based on the "stock" wiring from the factory. There is no way in h**l anybody on the forum can tell what has been changed in the past by an owner to ALTER the stock wiring on a vehicle. My apologies for thinking that your truck wiring was still OEM.
Brown wire to the relay supplies the ground. On an automatic car, this brown ground wire comes from the Neutral Safety Switch. Manual cars did NOT have a brown wire, ground was supplied by the "case ground" of the relay case to the firewall.
Yellow is +12V start signal, from the ignition...
I know Kiwi, I didn't mean that it was the same person, only that the seller was named "Cranky Arts" and our "Cranky 1" was looking to purchase a manual. Nothing for anyone to get worked up about. I know Cranky from B bodies (and you too Roger). :drinks:
See reply above to Kiwigtx, Cranky1...
This is what I really meant and should have said in my previous post. Although there are only a couple of manufacturer's around, they build the batteries to the spec of the company that ordered them and then slap the proper label on for that company.
Same as with major appliances, Whirlpool...
You are correct, there are only 2 or 3 different actual battery manufacturer's still around. They just slap a different label on the outside for whomever they are building for that particular day.
Welcome Gary, you've got a couple of nice trucks there. I'm also retired engineer, aerospace and missile systems. Also Dodge only (except for the wife's Jeep). I've always wanted a RamCharger, but just haven't found a nice one yet (if there is such a thing anymore?). So, I've had to make do...
corrosion on/in the rheostat? corrosion = resistance, resistance = voltage drop, voltage drop = dim lights
common issue with many older mopars with a rheostat for lamp control.
Me too.
As for the original temp sensor, it most likely is a temperature dependant resistor. In other words, the resistance measured to ground changes as the engine temp increases.
Can't tell you if the original style will work with your aftermarket gauge cluster or not. But I'll bet the...
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