I had just changed the column in my truck when I had everything (except for the right column) for an automatic to 4 speed swap.
I then found a floor shift column at Indy swap last year, trying now to decide whether to cut that hole in the floor and add the 3rd pedal to my truck.
I had to go...
Well about 3 months ago I drove in the local junkyard lot that's got the 70s trucks I'm wanting parts from and the old guy that lives across the street from it was out in the yard raking leaves or something. He stopped me as I turned around and told me a little bit of the back story about what...
I know of a couple 75-76 Dodge trucks in a local junkyard but it's been closed for a while, there's some pieces and parts on wanting from them if I can figure out who to talk to in order to get in there
Other factors come in to how a coil fires. Sounds like that "machine" was an old school ignition scope. Plug condition, cap rotor wires condition, even some carb/mixture issues or vac leak cah effect"how" a coil fires....
just because they're factory, doesn't
mean "junk" probably still better than current "new" parts. "new" these days definitely don't necessarily mean "good". the distributor can be easily rebuilt, bushings are available if needed, so are vac advance cans and electronic ignition pickups...
like the rest of your harness. start with one same year as yours and start there. forget "painless" etc. Theyre not, especially if youre not dealing with "GM".....
They did weird things with "fleet" vehicles.but when I did the retrofit on my 79 I used the filler between the grill and bumper that came off the junkyard refugee, I believe I might have had to extend the parking lights light socket wires but that's been 30 years ago I've slept since then.
If I...
Maybe somebody changed the grill at some point? I wrecked my 79 when I had it, quickest way to get it back mobile again was to get the only parts I could find at the time and bolt them on which were '78 parts
I just reread your earlier post. I see your trans cooler in the radiator went bad and mixed ATF with antifreeze. That is NOT good for the clutch material in the trans. Could easily explain your problems.
On the choke heater wire didn't you say it became unplugged and grounded out?
On the fusible link thing you can probably get by cutting it out and replacing with a fuse holder crimped into its place, and well insulated (again the "good" heat shrink with the adhesive within)
You don't have to...
On the 85 I also modified my harness, as in getting rid of every fusible link under the hood, by adding in an under hood fuse box like newer cars have. I went back to the junkyard and looked at pretty much everything in the yard at what they had, and ended up with one that I cut out of a 90-92...
I'm not sure exactly, my current project is an 85, which is different from yours but back then there were several years where they didn't change much.
On mine there were several places where wiring was just twisted and crudely taped. The main hot off the alternator changed colors and gauge size...
On my most recent 85 I got it with a train wreck of a wiring harness, I ended up finding another one in the junkyard and put the junkyard harness on mine, was the quickest easiest way to fix a lot of previous owner interference.
The gas pedal is linked to the carb by a cable. No electronics.
The choke is inter connected by linkage on the carb. The choke heater slowly opens the choke , there is a spring in the choke heater, on which the wire heats up the choke to speed up the choke opening. The wire that powers it is...
Oh yeah. Got a "regular" performer, not an air gap or an rpm. Plenty for how this car gets used.
Debating between one of my TQs vs one of my AFB'S. Leaning towards the TQ
If you were close by this is about when I just grab the tools and just start doing, sometimes I can do quicker and easier than trying to explain.
I'm about to do a carb swap in a 318 myself...
But I have to go a little deeper as I'm going from a 2bbl to a 4 bbl on my 78 fury
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