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Hey, how about that! We're now back to talkin' "Trucks" again on FTO!

that on fortrucksonly.com we have a forum header like this?

I agree with you, I think that is probably the case with his post. (Either that, or too much sauce while posting??) BUT, my whole point was that I thought he meant an 8 3/4 instead of the 8 3/8 that he posted. I thought his 8 3/8's statement was a typo based on the fact there are several...

OK, it must be me then. But can you please clarify what a "Mpoar reefers" is/means?? Also I'm wondering what a "Ramcharghers" might be?????????? Both are from your first post. But, whatever, you are correct about the 8 3/8", verified by KD. Thanks so much for the info.

Thanks for the clarification KD. When I had older Dodge trucks ('49, '53 '65, '72, & '87) I never had the service manuals for them so never heard about the so called 8 3/8" rear. Actually come to think of it, I do have a service manual for my '53 Dodge. I'll have to check out the section on...

60 years of owning, driving, wrenching on Mopars of all makes/models and I've never heard of an 8 3/8 rear differential. But then, considering all the other typo errors in your post, I guess what you really meant was an 8 3/4" rear?

Pipe thread to pipe thread = hardware store.

Unless you've owned the truck from day 1, hard telling what some previous owner has done to it over the years. Previous owner had the speedo out for some reason, lost the original mounting screws, put it back in with whatever he had laying around, and then wondered why it wouldn't work anymore...

Simple solution, shorter screws.

Once again, 4 year old thread with the OP disappearing 1 day after asking his question never to be seen or heard from again. Very common on this forum, unfortunately.

JFYI, 6 year old thread, OP hasn't been on the forum for the last 5 years now. He's probably figured it out by now and won't be needing any further advice.

I predict another "hit & run" post.

Can't tell you anything about this person, I don't know him personally. Just know that his electrical knowledge is above average.

Before you go all "herd mentality" with that "Bypass" BS, please check out the youtube link and listen and think about what this gentleman has to say about Chrysler electrical circuits. He knows what he's talking about unlike most so called experts on forums. As I remember, he is retired from...

Well, all my comments were based on the "stock" wiring from the factory. There is no way in h**l anybody on the forum can tell what has been changed in the past by an owner to ALTER the stock wiring on a vehicle. My apologies for thinking that your truck wiring was still OEM.

Brown wire to the relay supplies the ground. On an automatic car, this brown ground wire comes from the Neutral Safety Switch. Manual cars did NOT have a brown wire, ground was supplied by the "case ground" of the relay case to the firewall. Yellow is +12V start signal, from the ignition...

And Mike Cook (also from B bodies) understood what I was saying about the seller & buyer names perfectly, thus his reply.

I know Kiwi, I didn't mean that it was the same person, only that the seller was named "Cranky Arts" and our "Cranky 1" was looking to purchase a manual. Nothing for anyone to get worked up about. I know Cranky from B bodies (and you too Roger). :drinks: See reply above to Kiwigtx, Cranky1...

How about that? The seller is none other than "Cranky".

This is what I really meant and should have said in my previous post. Although there are only a couple of manufacturer's around, they build the batteries to the spec of the company that ordered them and then slap the proper label on for that company. Same as with major appliances, Whirlpool...