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Project: White Trash

B

Battlewagon

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Joined
Sep 20, 2017
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Location
San Jose, Ca
So yeah, my friends jokingly refer to my D100 as such. Anyway, figure I'll occasionally post updates and things slowly progress.

First round was kinda detailed here: New here, 74 D100

Some of the things I forgot to note, swapped to all LEDs in the dash. I can read the gauges at night, woohoo!

2nd, was putting a set of Hella H4 headlight housings in with Philips Xtreme vision bulbs. Another life saver, that and connect the disconnected or straight up missing body gnds.

A Carter 625cfm carb made another massive drivability improvement over the tired worn out 2bbl, thats perched on top of a old Edelbrock Performer intake. Air cleaner is a Spectre cold air setup.

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Hopefully this weekend I'll get a chance to install a mini starter and do the Denso alternator swap.
 
man your going to town on it already , liking good . hey there is a mopar cruz on the 30th starts at cherry ave at the bass fishing sports store . thats were everyone is to meet and cruz there cars up to hayward i think . to a dodge dealership .
 
paul massaro said:
man your going to town on it already , liking good . hey there is a mopar cruz on the 30th starts at cherry ave at the bass fishing sports store . thats were everyone is to meet and cruz there cars up to hayward i think . to a dodge dealership .
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Doh! Can't do Saturdays, single dad to a 4yo so social things are pretty much out until she gets to be older and into cars like dad. Hahahah! I do usually have Sundays free though. Thanks for the invite!
 
Oh, and for anyone that is interested, I can do a write-up for the Denso swap when I do it, its pretty simple. Plus, they came in sooooo many cars/trucks (Caravans, Dakotas, Durangos, Rams, ect) that they can be found in the yards freshly bolted on, and $25ea. I bought 3. Hahahah!

Here is the one I put on my 340, this is the 140A version but can be found in 90A and 120A. Ammeter bypass and upgraded charge wire is a must, but its so sweet sit at a light in the cold rain with the heater blasting, wipers going, headlights on, 750rpm and still getting over 13V.

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Battlewagon said:
Oh, and for anyone that is interested, I can do a write-up for the Denso swap when I do it, its pretty simple. Plus, they came in sooooo many cars/trucks (Caravans, Dakotas, Durangos, Rams, ect) that they can be found in the yards freshly bolted on, and $25ea. I bought 3. Hahahah!

Here is the one I put on my 340, this is the 140A version but can be found in 90A and 120A. Ammeter bypass and upgraded charge wire is a must, but its so sweet sit at a light in the cold rain with the heater blasting, wipers going, headlights on, 750rpm and still getting over 13V.

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I'm all ears. Is the output marked on the tag or dono need to know a part number?
 
Got a few more things done. Flushed the brakes, tinted the back window so I' not frying, aaaaand, slapped some wheels on. I just couldn' stand those horrible chrome nuggets.
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Nice truck! I once had a 76 Trail Duster. Are those Mopar Rallye Wheels you put on it ? ; I like! I too am interested in the Denso swap, (for my car that is). Does it do away with the solid state regulator? I need more juice at idle with 2 big electric fans running. How many amps does the Denso put out? I have a 95 amp Power Master which is fine but the charge rate at idle drops the voltage from 14 to 11 or so. Any info would be appreciated! Thanks!!!
 
multimopes said:
Nice truck! I once had a 76 Trail Duster. Are those Mopar Rallye Wheels you put on it ? ; I like! I too am interested in the Denso swap, (for my car that is). Does it do away with the solid state regulator? I need more juice at idle with 2 big electric fans running. How many amps does the Denso put out? I have a 95 amp Power Master which is fine but the charge rate at idle drops the voltage from 14 to 11 or so. Any info would be appreciated! Thanks!!!
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This in not internally regulated, still use the external which is a good thing. Current output is great at idle! I should have time to get the swap done toomorrow and I'l
Post up the details. ;-)
 
LocuMob said:
Those wheels don't look too bad on a truck!
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Thanks! I took a leap of faith with this wheel choice. I was going to get the Dukes of Hazzard style Vectors, but these popped up for cheap. Really, anything in my eyes is nicer than the previous wheels. LOL
 
dodgefred said:
nice truck will definitevely look better lowered.
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Working on that, the rear is easy, but the front has me concerned. I want to mess around with it when I rebuild the front end and see how much drop I can get away with without getting bad control arm/tie rod angles. If there is enough interest I' like to see if we can get someone to develop some proper drop spindles.
 
van lca were used on my first lowered truck and I am quiet happy with the ride. On my second project i tried Dakota dropped spindle my Old 72 truck was orginally with front drum brakes. here we go

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I actually got a few more things done on the ole girl. Mostly been my daily driver though.

Replaced the wiper motor and the bushings in the linkage, works like new now.

Building a 406 stroker for it and want the trans/exhaust done before the motor goes in. Found a set of Doug Thorley tri-y headers, so on they went. I could only find 2 exhaust kits, Hooker and Heart Throb. Didn't like what I read in the reviews so I made my own 2.5" system from pieces from Summit racing, as well as Hooker Max Flow mufflers. Quite please with how quiet the system is, still need to run it over the axle, flip the mufflers around so I can tuck them up nice and high, and have it all welded up. Might toss in some flex joints as well further up.

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Block machining done, 89 360 roller cam, decked, line bored, and punched out .020". Pistons and rods balanced, but having a issue with the Scat cast crank. Was advertised as internally balanced, but its WAY off, taking a lot of mallory to get it right.

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Made my decision on the transmission. Going to gut one of my overdrive A833's and throw the guts into my extra iron case. The ratios 1-3 are practically the same as 2-4 in the NP435, but now I'll be able to snick into a .73 overdriven 4th. That should have me at a very friendly 2k rpm on the highway. Last bits needed are a bellhousing and the low tunnel from a automatic truck.


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Here is a handy piece you can use to beef up the frame on the older D trucks at the steering box, factory brace from a D150, $10 at your local junk yard. I'll be putting this in when I add power steering.

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Nabbed a factory front sway bar from the bone yard.

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Happened to have a extra rear sway bar kicking around for a early A body. Turns out its the same bar they recommend for the trucks. Between the 2, handling is night and day. Don't feel like I'm dragging the door handles on the ground going around corners.

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This is what I found when I opened up the old wiper motor:
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Happened to have a extra rear sway bar kicking around for a early A body. Turns out its the same bar they recommend for the trucks. Between the 2, handling is night and day. i'ts just what was read:cat:
 
dodgefred said:
Happened to have a extra rear sway bar kicking around for a early A body. Turns out its the same bar they recommend for the trucks. Between the 2, handling is night and day. i'ts just what was read:cat:
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No worries! I forgot to mention its a aftermarket rear bar, I think Addco? The rear frame rail spacing was correct, however I had to order much longer end links to get it installed correctly.
 
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