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My 79 w200 is bogging down when i first give it gas

V

victa15

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Joined
Sep 21, 2016
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Location
tucson, AZ
It been a problem for a while now. I just swapped out the transmission and it runs better but still bogs down. at night all the lights flicker and it almost stalls but I let off the gas to keep it on. Once it goes past 20 miles an hour I can give it gas with no problem. I dont know what it could be. the motor was rebuilt years ago but It did have the same issue before I rebuilt it
 
Just off the top of my head , I'd say it sounds like a carb issue . The light's flickering would be because the engine's idle dropping so low , almost to a stall condition . What's under the hood and what's been done to it ? Would need more details for anyone to give any better ideas .
 
I have a built 318 with header, aftermarket intake and 600 cfm carb. I was going to switch it out to see if it is the problem
 
Before you starts switching parts have you run any checks like vacuum, timing, accelerator pump, compression, distributor advance and all lines intact.
 
yeah I checked the vacuum lines. I;m taking off the egr and smog stuff. Than going to check my advance
 
Yeah cause I live an Arizona and the emissions are strict. But I got collectors insurance on it so now no more emissions. I'm taking them off
 
It "could be" a clogged cat . But for any of us to help you . You have to tell us what you have a little better . "Built" 318 could be anything from , punched out , really big cam , to a mild build with just some aftermarket goodies . Building a motor for a 4x4 is different then building a motor for a go fast two wheel drive .Holly 600 , again we assume it has vac seconderies or is it mechanical ? What style after market intake is it ? Is it a dual plain or a single plane ? If it's a single plane , then get rid of it . That's a higher RPM intake . Like I said , were going to need more info . Otherwise were all just shooting in the dark here .
 
I shot in the light last week...

I also think carb off the top of my head. Same issue before and after rebuild, hope it's something simple.
 
Thanks. So it was the carb. The vacuum advance line that goes in the front of the carb was on the wrong side. Plus I unhooked the smog and egr. Now it runs great. I'm going to take off the cats next. My 318 is bored out .30 with a mild cam. Headers, edulbrock intake and Eddie 600cfm carb. I rebuilt it 4 years ago but haven't driven it around much.
 
Glad it worked out for you and it was a simple fix . You wouldn't believe how many people pull in here with issue's with there rides and it ends up being as simple as that .
 
Yeah thanks for all the advice. I'm glad it was just that. Now I just need to work on the charging system.
 
victa15 said:
Yeah thanks for all the advice. I'm glad it was just that. Now I just need to work on the charging system.
Click to expand...
Well it's not a mopar if it didn't have electrical issue's . lol Just a lil helpful hint just in case you didn't know . The charging system run thru your alt gauge on these trucks . It completes the circuit . My charging system and my wiring was a royal mess when I first got this Warlock and I've straitened out more electrical issues on older Mopars then I can count . You'll get there , just take one issue at a time , that's all . ;)
 
Yeah your right. What about by passing the alt gauge? I've heard of people doing that because they are fire hazards. When I got my truck it looked like someone drilled the two areas of the bulk head connector and crimped the red wire through but bypassed the back wire. They have it going from the altinator strieght to the starter relay. This was all in the cab before I swapped it to my new truck I built. When running at idle it's charging the battery at 12v. I do have an electric fan running and when off the meter reads 13v. When I step on the gas with the fan on it goes up a little more then 13v with the fan on. Is that fine? I had a lifetime warranty on my altinator and just replaced it because it was only charging at 11v at idle with the fan off. Do I need to get a bigger amp altinator? Mine is a 65 amp
 
Yeah you can bypass the gauge . Me personally , I like keeping an eye on what's going on under the hood . In my opinion , the factory gauge is the weakest point in the charging system . But "if" everything is working properly then there shouldn't be an issue . I would say about one out of ten have gone up in smoke . Normally because of over charging , bad wiring , or just plane old . If you don't want to take the chance of going thru the charging system wiring an hooking up a factory gauge again , then you could always wire up an aftermarket one just to keep an eye on things . You should be getting between 13 and 14 1/2 volts at the back of your alternator with the engine running . The 12 and 13 volts your getting now could be because the alternator isn't putting out enough or your battery ( or battery connections ) isn't that great . Or possibly your field wire isn't in the greatest condition . Which would give your alternator a false reading . But that's rare for that to happen , but it has happened . I've rewired the charging system on my 79 . I run an 80 ( or is it a 95 ? I can't remember . tough getting old .lol ) with a yellow top and the factory gauge . I also have a volt meter but I still have wire it up . I run two 12" electric fans , a hot ignition system and a decent sound system and I can go out there now and check it at the back of the alternator on my truck and it will show 14 volts even with the big lumpy cam .
 
Oh ok. I'm going to check the wiring going to the back of the altinator. I have an optima red top I need to charge and put in it
 
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