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Light build on a 440 for my Ramcharger

Mopar to ya

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Jul 19, 2014
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Location
North Branch, MN
I found a local guy who is big into Mopar and bought a running 1977 440 for very cheap. I don't have much money to build, so I crossed my fingers and tore it down. The top end has absolutely no wear at all on the cam or lifters. The oil pan was full of sludge and the rod bearings showed normal wear. I ordered rod, cam and main bearings and all the gaskets. I'm going to do a light port on the heads myself. Then it gets a cam, lifters, aluminum dual plane intake, carb and headers. Not pro street fast, but quicker than stock. 440 on stand.jpg440 on stand 1.jpg440 cam shot.jpg440 rockers.jpg440 oil pick up.jpg440 oil pan sludge.jpg440 piston.jpg440 cylinder.jpg440 piston set.jpg440 rod journals.jpg

440 rod journals.jpg


440 cam shot.jpg


440 cylinder.jpg


440 oil pan sludge.jpg


440 oil pick up.jpg


440 on stand 1.jpg


440 on stand.jpg


440 piston set.jpg


440 piston.jpg


440 rockers.jpg
 
How about new piston rings , timing chain and oil pump. Then it should be good for a long time.
 
Since you have it apart, I'd sure hone the cylinders and install new rings. Don't go for the high dollar chrome plated, blah, blah, blah rings, get cheap cast iron rings. Yes, plain old "soft" rings. They will wear to fit the cylinders and you be happy to have increased compression and very little blow by coming out the crankcase (after the rings are seated.) Cylinders don't wear evenly, but tend to wear barrel shaped vertically and egg shaped around the circunference. Cast iron engine blocks tend to harden with repeated heating and cooling cycles during normal use. Combine the hard, irregular cylinder with hard faced rings and chances are you will never get them to seat fully. And thorouoghly honing the cylinders doesn't prevent it either.

Last spring I overhauled a gasoline tractor engine that had a LOT of hours. Were it a car, it would probably would of had 300,000-350,000 miles. The cylinders were worn up to .005", which is way past the service limit. I didn't have $850 for 6 new pistons, rings and sleeves, so I bought the cheapest Hasting rings I could find. I honed the cylinders thoroughly and after some oil consumption during break in, I've put over 100 hours on it (equivilent to 6,000 miles) with maybe a half pint of oil use. And that's with extremely worn cylinders. Like I said, you've gone this far, so install new, cheap cast iron rings.

As for your lifters, use a straight edge on the bottom (where the lobe contacts) and if they have a convex shape (higher in the middle), they're fine to use. For the oil pump, remove the bottom and pull the gears out. If the surface of the lobes are pitted or scarred, it's new pump time. Same goes if the gears have worn the end plate. A gear pump should fit tight enough that there is drag when you turn the shaft with the pump assembled. If the gears and ends are ok and you feel drag (and the shaft won't spin easily), the pump is ok to use. And chances are the timing chain is worn. They are inexpensive and like the rings, don't cheap out on that. I've overhauled countless engines over the years of every size, application and fuel type you can think of, so I do know a few things about it.
 
I forgot to add I am doing rings. I am going to ream the ridges and use a dingleball on the cylinders. I'll probably use the old oil pump, but I will change the timing chain. I found a guy who is sending me the truck oil pan and oil pick up along with the mounting brackets to put a big block in the Ramchatger's small block mounts. Trying to do this on an unemployed man's budget isn't easy.
 
Personally , I'd put a new oil pump in to but I know what it's like working with a no budget , budget . "Believe me I know" ! lol At least if you get the motor in and you don't like what your oil pressure gauge is telling you or you just want a little more then it's not that bad to swap out after you have the motor in . I'd go with a double roller chain myself . The truck oil pan that your getting , Is he sending the dip stick with it as well ? The dip stick tube on the truck pans come off the pan and you'll have to remember to block off the whole on the block were the old tube was "before" you install the engine .
 
What bear said about the oil pump not being that hard to replace also goes for the lifters. That's why I mentioned checking both those items and if servicable, reuse them when money is tight. Dropping the oil pan or pulling the intake manifold isn't fun, but is doable as opposed to something that requires pulling the heads.
 
Unless you know for a fact the amount of mile's on the lifters ( because you put them in ) then you should always change the lifter's when installing a new cam . And judging by the look's of the lobes on the cam that was in the motor ( 4th pictures down ) then I say don't take a chance on putting a higher lift cam in and reusing the old one's . See that sludge in the bottom of the pan and the pick up ? That oil's been running threw those same lifters .
 
It's getting new lifters and a new cam. Got it all torn down and painted. Ready to start assembling as soon as the last parts get here, which should be tomorrow. Still looking for an intake and valve covers. Oh, and I need the dipstick tube. I know I need it, but the guy who had the pan couldn't find it. Good pics here. Plus a head on of my Dart Sport.

Torn down and dirty 1.jpgTorn down and dirty with Dart.jpgDegreased 440 1.jpgDegreased 440.jpg440 in primer 1.jpg440 in primer.jpg440 in Hemi orange 1.jpg440 in Hemi orange 2.jpg440 in Hemi orange.jpg440 in Hemi orange 3.jpg

440 in Hemi orange 1.jpg


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440 in Hemi orange.jpg


440 in primer 1.jpg


440 in primer.jpg


Degreased 440 1.jpg


Degreased 440.jpg


Torn down and dirty 1.jpg


Torn down and dirty with Dart.jpg
 
As for the sludge, the cleanest engines I've ever rebuilt were on combines. Combines are used seasonally, setting the rest of the time never being started. And when they are used, they run at rated rpm for many hours at a time, never being shut down and allowed to cool off. Next cleanest have been large, high horsepower diesels, these also being used intensly for limited times during the year. And when they are used, they are usually under heavy load at high (for a tractor) rpms. The cruddiest engines are those that are started often, especially in cold weather, used for short periods and never really warmed up thoroughly. Small gas tractors used for hauling hay in the winter are good examples, as are cars or trucks that are driven a few miles to work 5 days a week. The 318 industrial combine engine I overhauled had probably been used for 25 years with no major work. There was absolutely no sludge whatsoever anywhere in the engine. Not in the bottom of the oil pan or inside the valve covers. The small gas tractor I overhauled in spring 2013 was very cruddy inside. I cleaned everything thoroughly and a year later, I pulled the valve cover to adjust the valves. I'd used the tractor probably every other day during the winter for short periods and the inside of the valve cover was covered with an opaque layer of "jelly", a mixture of condensation and oil. Think of pudding and you know what the consistancy was.

The point I'm making is that just because there is an abundance of sludge, that doesn't mean the engine was mistreated or not serviced. The condition of the rod and main bearings should be a good indication of how often the oil and filter was changed of the conditions it was operated under. If there are numerous scores in the bearings, that means big chunks of crud were in the oil and gouged out the score. Which is exactly what the bearing is supposed to do. The soft babbit allows a hard particle to sink into the babbit instead of damaging the crankshaft. Think of stepping on a golf ball on muddy ground. You barely feel it because the ball sinks into the mud. Put the ball on hard pavement and step on it and you'll probably be limping around for a few days if you're like the rest of us old timers. Something else you can go by is ring and upper cylinder wear. If the engine is breathing dirty air, it's going to cause excessive wear on the compression rings, the upper part of the cylinder and even the valve faces and seats. All dirt, even talcum powder fine clay is nothing but ground up rock and that causes excessive wear.

If the oil rings are pretty well worn out but the compression rings are in decent condition, that means a lot of use, but running on clean filtered air. If the oil rings are decent but the compression rings and valve seats are really bad, that means dirty air. If all of the bearings are scored and worn, that means dirty oil. If the bearings are worn and showing copper but no deep scores, that means lots of hours but with clean oil. And broken compression rings are often the result of over-reving, especially if you can see a faint semi-circle the size of a valve on top of one or more pistons. That means serious over reving causing valve float. When I tear an engine apart, I can pretty well tell you how it was maintained and treated. The engine in my parts truck was thoroughly abused. The rod bearings were completely showing copper with chunks even torn out. The main bearings had deep scores and the crank jounals were covered with fine scores. There was a busted ring that had worn the cylinder as well as the imprint of a valve on top of one piston. The hard surface on the cam lobes was flaking away, one lobe was nearly round and several lifters were deeply dished and lots of sludge everywhere. The history was that it had been over-reved quite some time before I got the truck, the oil was seldom changed, it was run on a lot of short runs and I suspect that it was run low on oil for quite some time or was low and used on steep inclines, causing the oil pump to suck air. The upper cylinders were well worn and the valve faces deeply concaved and the seats were rounded, lacking a definate seating area, suggesting use in dirty conditions with poor air filtration. From the look of the air filter that came with the truck, I suspect filter changes were rare and infrequent. In addition the frame was bend as well as twisted from hitting a stump with the front axle according to what my son was told. Yep, a pretty hard life. The boy drove it about 20 miles home for me on back roads because the brakes didn't work and truthfully, I'm really surprised the engine didn't lock up or throw a rod.
 
The sludge didn't bother me. It's 37 years old. That's not unusual. The lower half was OE, the top end looks like it got a cam and lifters fairly recently. The bearings have normal wear and the crank looks just fine. I'll get the bearings and rings in and seal it up with all new gaskets. Even a moderate lower end will run good for a lot of years.
 
Your 440 is look'in Gooood and your Sport look's sweet ! I'm a big block guy at heart and your right when that motor is done you should get a lot of good miles out of her . I've built a few 440's and 383's even a few small block's but the Mopar big block's are my favorite . The only reason why I mentioned the sludge is because that oil or at least what was getting past your pick up was restricting the top end of lubrication and I would hate for you to have to go back into the motor after it was done because of something as simple as a set of lifters .
 
By the way , What cam did you pick out for this beast ?
 
I haven't picked one out yet. Staying with a stock head set, but I want some power and lope. I think I can go .505 lift with stock springs and rockers. I'm open to suggestions. My Dart has a small block 408 stroker with a Comp Cam 242/248 Dur@ .050, .3660/.3630 lift @ .050, 112° lobe sep. 549/544 gross valve lift. It sounds nice, but I went top line on everything in that motor. I can't afford to do that on the 440. What do you think? Any suggestions?
 
What are your plans for this truck ? Do you plan on driving it a lot ? With a cam that size your going to have to think about valve springs , convertor and gears and I thought this was a budget street truck build . Also , Don't forget that this is a big heavy truck and your going to want your power range in the low to middle end to get that moving . Don't get me wrong , I'm the type of guy that "loves" the sound of a "big" lumpy cam . Hell my Warlock shakes the house when I have it idling in the garage and I'm still thinking of going bigger eventually . But that's because I'm also going to be racing it , not just driving it on the street .
 
It is a budget build, but a cam costs what it costs. Whether I go big or small the price difference will be minimal. I want to stay with stock springs. I'm not sure how big I can go, but I plan on a dual plane intake for some good power range. If you have advice on a cam, I'm in need of a little help. This is a lightly driven truck, I just want some better power than the dog of a 318 and I want it to sound mean. It will mostly be street driven and at car shows. I may get excited and try it at BIR on street legal night just for fun. I am going to port the heads myself. My brother has done it before. It takes forever, but time is on my side. Everything I can do myself, I will.

On a side note, my brother has a 78 Warlock he is fitting for a 5.7 Hemi and A Viper 6 speed manual transmission. Right now he has a 360 with SuperTrapps on it that sound really nice.
Hemi.jpg

Hemi.jpg
 
It is a budget build, but a cam costs what it costs. Whether I go big or small the price difference will be minimal. I want to stay with stock springs. I'm not sure how big I can go, but I plan on a dual plane intake for some good power range. If you have advice on a cam, I'm in need of a little help. This is a lightly driven truck, I just want some better power than the dog of a 318 and I want it to sound mean. It will mostly be street driven and at car shows. I may get excited and try it at BIR on street legal night just for fun. I am going to port the heads myself. My brother has done it before. It takes forever, but time is on my side. Everything I can do myself, I will.

On a side note, my brother has a 78 Warlock he is fitting for a 5.7 Hemi and A Viper 6 speed manual transmission. Right now he has a 360 with SuperTrapps on it that sound really nice.
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Yah , The price's of the cams are about the same but if you get one that's to big then you have the added cost of springs , convertor, gears , etc. . When your picking out the cam you have to consider what this motor is going in , how much it weighs and were you want or need your power and torque curve . Personally if it were me and I was running stock springs from a 77 block I wouldn't go any higher then around a 480/490 lift . a cam that size would give you a good power increase as well as a nice lump in the idle . If all your looking for is a lumpy idle then comp has a thumper cam and cork just gave you the link to hughes . Although I do question that much lift with stock springs . Your brother Warlock sounds like an interesting build . Is he going to keep the motor stock or is he going to build it ?
 
I have read some pretty good reviews of Hughes Engines Whiplash cams. Gives you the sound you want and can keep stock springs. Some claim they make really good power too.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...V2hpcGxhc2ggTXVzY2xlIENhciBjYW1z&partid=25116

If link doesn't work, go to http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php and click on raised deck big block, then cams
The hughes cam Sound good Kork , then again I've always loved the sound of a mopar with a cam in it lol . But my question is how can you run that much lift with stock springs with out getting valve float ?
 
I've wandered that as well Bear, but Hughes claims they work fine. I haven't run one but have read several threads on them on FABO and Moparts. Guys running them seem to like them. Worth a try if you are wanting to stay with stock springs. I'd rather imagine it's about the same as the Thumper cam, but not sure if Thumper is OK with stock springs and low compression.
Mopar to ya, your brother's Warlock is a cool build. Share some more!!
 
The plan is to stroke the Hemi and port the heads with a new cam. Should be around 650hp. And he still won't beat my Dart! He has had a 67 Cuda 440, a 66 Charger 440 six pack, and a 73 Dart Sport 383 with NOS and he has never been able to beat me. This truck may have his best chance.
 
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