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Hi, newbie here

bikinkawboy

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Nov 12, 2013
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Location
Renick Missouri
Looks like I'm not the only person with a weakness for old Dodges. I run a '74 D300 on the farm, dual wheels, 12' Knapheide flatbed and hoist. 33k original miles. Haven't used the bed grain sides or stock racks in a long time. Fixing up my old '77 D150 318 after setting behind the shop for 16 years. Lots of rust from a couple of trips to Chicago over New Years and bathing in their notorious calcium chloride, which is much more corrosive than ordinary salt. My boy took in a '77 W100 for a tranny job and I'm using the drive train, steering gear and cross members to convert the 150 to 4-wheel drive. Also using the doors and a few other pieces of sheet metal that is in better condition than the 150.

Here's a question, I'm using the 360 engine from the W100. The camshaft is in bad shape, with several lobes flaking off on the edges and one lobe that's really rounded off to a nub. Not sure if it's the OEM or an aftermarket cam. I know the OEM grind in '77 wasn't real great for producing power and that the cam used in the Lil Red Wagon or police cars performed much better. I'm not building a show truck, but one that's going to have to earn its keep on the farm. What I want to know is for low end torque, which is the preferred cam, or is there one out there that is even better for my purposes? Thanks!
 
Your not the only one with a weakness for old Dodge's . "Believe" me ! lol ... As for your cam question ? I'd recommend an RV cam for what your looking for . Just my two cents .
Looks like I'm not the only person with a weakness for old Dodges. I run a '74 D300 on the farm, dual wheels, 12' Knapheide flatbed and hoist. 33k original miles. Haven't used the bed grain sides or stock racks in a long time. Fixing up my old '77 D150 318 after setting behind the shop for 16 years. Lots of rust from a couple of trips to Chicago over New Years and bathing in their notorious calcium chloride, which is much more corrosive than ordinary salt. My boy took in a '77 W100 for a tranny job and I'm using the drive train, steering gear and cross members to convert the 150 to 4-wheel drive. Also using the doors and a few other pieces of sheet metal that is in better condition than the 150.

Here's a question, I'm using the 360 engine from the W100. The camshaft is in bad shape, with several lobes flaking off on the edges and one lobe that's really rounded off to a nub. Not sure if it's the OEM or an aftermarket cam. I know the OEM grind in '77 wasn't real great for producing power and that the cam used in the Lil Red Wagon or police cars performed much better. I'm not building a show truck, but one that's going to have to earn its keep on the farm. What I want to know is for low end torque, which is the preferred cam, or is there one out there that is even better for my purposes? Thanks!
 
Welcome, I agree with Bear, try to keep the cam duration no more than 268* which seems to be the magic RV number for LA small blocks. Get new lifters and a double row timing chain and sprockets as well. Try to get a MOPAR ground cam and not a chivy grind which some cam grinders put onto MOPAR cams to take advantage of a better opening rate. You may need to upgrade your valve springs to suit the cam and try to keep max lift no more than .480" or you will have to have the valve guides machined down.
 
Thanks for the info guys, exactly what I need.

And Aussie, a few years back I was married to a gal from Adelaide. Never got to go down under though, that's been one of my wishes for a long time.
 
Adelaide is about 500 miles west of where I live, you should come down sometime, Australia is a big country like America and we even speak the same language almost, you speak with an accent, but then Americans say we have an accent. Come down sometime and find out.
 
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