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Axle Shims

jobrated_man

jobrated_man

www.39-47dodgetrucks.com
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Jun 15, 2011
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San Diego, California
Replacing the wheel bearing on my 1959 D100 and find that I need more shims to set proper end play on the axles. With bearing race or shell tapped in to flush with the housing, it is too tight, and axles wont turn. I need those shims to get some spacing behind the support housing and backing plate. I know the factory made them in .005, .0125, and .030 thickness. They are abouto 4.5 inches in diameter, and 5 holes. Can't find anywhere, - would rather find stock instead of cutting my own out of steel. ideas?
 
7mopar said:
Trying to imagine what went south. This is a full float housing?
Click to expand...
Yes, with the tapered axle. problem is, I set the shafts and adjust end play, but then when the outer seal and backing plate is bolted on, without shims, it forces the shaft further back into center and tightens up. so tight neither axle will turn, - apparently the splined ends are hitting the block in differential. I need about .040 on each side to keep it free.
 
Can you post pictures?
Full flooting housings do not have center spacer blocks just a pin for the spider gears. The hub bearing are torqued by nuts on the end of the housing. What you are describing is some thing I have never had a problem with using the original shaft spacers and seals.
If this is a regular tapered bearing housing with spacer adjustment on the passenger side has the adjustment been exceeded? If so and all part have been restored to their proper postion you differently have a problem.
 
If I get this correct and you have tapered axles with removable hubs? The seals and backing plates need to be installed before setting axle preload. Do you have the bearings installed correctly? Interior race in the larger, exterior with bearing is the smaller. The grease seal needs to be installed in the housing before the axles. With tapered axles and the hubs removed the outer dust seal could be installed before the backing plates. Do not try that with flanged axels as they must go on the axle shaft before the bearing. With everything assembled axle preload can then be set.
 
Well, with these comments, I am wondering if I am installing correctly. Just trying to re-install the way it was when I took it apart a couple weeks ago. I will try to get some photos today so to help me explain, and we are on the same page. .
 
Pictures are always good when taking things apart. The older I get the more they are needed. Now if I can only remember where I put things.
 
OK, heres photo of the passenger side, just after drum removed, shows how it goes together - outer seal housing on top of backing support plate, and over the axle/bearing.

sealwheelrt.jpg
 
59AxleSeal.JPG
And, then this is how it looks with support backing plate off, and seal housing off, just showing the outside of bearing race, and the housing. you can see it (the bearing is outside the housing, so, needs shims around it to prevent the support plate from pushing it further into the housing when torqued down. the hole in the plate is close around the axle, so it would push it in. what have I got wrong here?
 
This is not what I was expecting to see on the passenger side. Need to do more research.
Is the drivers side the same?
 
As it turns out, with a bit more research in the books, it seems these axles are called the Semi-floating rear axles. These axles were used in earlier trucks , like the W series half tons, and the B series. I will get some sims cut by DCM Classics. Thanks for the help.
 
56 and older would explain why things were not looking right but just could not verify it.
 
But, this is a 1959 D100. I would not expect to find a non-original rear axle set up in there. as far as I know, nothing was changed. I guess I need to look at another 59 D100 to see if mine is an oddball or whatever.
 
Did a web search and ended at all.par. Both full & semi float axles were offered in 59. Unfortunately not much information about them. Dodge still uses a semi float axle but doubt if any parts or design would be the same.
We need to find an 80 year old Dodge truck mechanic that is still alive.
 
7mopar said:
Did a web search and ended at all.par. Both full & semi float axles were offered in 59. Unfortunately not much information about them. Dodge still uses a semi float axle but doubt if any parts or design would be the same.
We need to find an 80 year old Dodge truck mechanic that is still alive.
Click to expand...
Well, I'm not that far away from that category, but didn't help me. First time I've had to deal with this unknown phenomenon.
 
What exactly holds the iner and outer bearing races in place. If the iner bearing is pressed on the axle shaft could it be possible they are not completely seated. That would force the axle farther into the housing.
Just looking for possibilities.
If the only things that have been changed are bears and seals. All other parts removed used again something has to be installed wrong.
 
jobrated_man said:
As it turns out, with a bit more research in the books, it seems these axles are called the Semi-floating rear axles. These axles were used in earlier trucks , like the W series half tons, and the B series. I will get some sims cut by DCM Classics. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
Even the later 8 3/4 rears are considered semi-floating.....
 
7mopar said:
What exactly holds the iner and outer bearing races in place. If the iner bearing is pressed on the axle shaft could it be possible they are not completely seated. That would force the axle farther into the housing.
Just looking for possibilities.
If the only things that have been changed are bears and seals. All other parts removed used again something has to be installed wrong.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I was thinking last week, not all the way on. but there is a shoulder or a lip you might say that the inner bearing goes either up against or up and over somewhat. I tried to press it further on, using a 20 ton press. would not budge, in fact, the bearing started to break down under the pressure. had to remove and replace. Well, maybe I have the wrong bearing, ? so double checked and found the exact number 25880 on both sides, inner axle bearing, that's what I used as replacement. the only way I can see how it might go up further on that shoulder would be to freeze the axle and heat the bearing for installation. As it stands now, the new bearings are up tight against that friction shoulder, seated well, hope that does it. Thanks for the brainstorming - you've come down the path I had hoped would work.
 
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