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More issues, this time white smoke

charm

Active Member
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Mar 26, 2019
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Location
Everett, WA
So, finally got the truck started! Yay!!!

But, white smoke. Lots of it.

I haven't let it run for more than a minute or two. Let me know if y'all have anything to add to my plan below.

First, I'll pull plugs. They were brand new so, hopefully, will show something even after such a brief run time.

If they don't, I'm thinking I'll add 5lbs to the head bolts.

I'm also concerned that, perhaps, I didn't clean things well enough before I put the heads back on. But, the block surface was pristine and the heads were milled, so they were clean too. But, if there was something that I missed in the combustion chamber, could that just be burning off and I need to give it more time?

It wasn't smoking before so I doubt the block is cracked. The heads were inspected by the machine shop so we know they aren't (weren't) cracked before I torqued 'em down.

I know I tried to install a bolt that was too long when installing the timing cover, but was aware that some of the holes, with too long a bolt, can contact the cylinder sleeve. Wehn that happened I wasn't using much force and didn't push it. But, could I have put a hole in the sleeve or would it have just bent?

I'm also thinking I may run it for a couple minutes without coolant and see if it stops smoking.

All that said, other than the smoking, it starts up like a new car and runs smooth (as long as you ignore the billowing clouds of rank smelling white smoke).
 
What does the rank white smoke smell like? No need to run anti-freeze but at least put water in it until its running right unless it will get below freezing. You did torque the head bolts in proper sequence? If not that's a good way to warp even a good head. I would also not recheck the head bolt torque until it has at least time to warm up to normal temperature.
 
I did torque everything to the correct torque in the correct sequence (Chilton agreed with the machine shop and I did what Chilton said).

The smoke was like nothing I've smelled before. It was pungent, almost a rotten smell. I don't really have a good description. I would have expected a sweetness to it, being that there is coolant in there, but there was nothing sweet about the smell. I work in the wine industry so being at a loss for descriptive words about the way something smells is very uncomfortable for me.

I 'think' we're past freezing, but this winter has been all over the map so I'm not convinced that I should go all water just yet. But soon!
 
Water will not be as toxic to the cylinders if there is indeed a water leak. As soon as every thing has been checked just drain the water radiator and block.
 
I should have just let it run.

I pulled the plugs and they were all nice and dry and looked almost brand new as they should have with less than 5 minutes of idling on them.

So, I let it run for like 20 minutes. Smoke cleared up!

It's running best with the timing a bit more retarded than I would expect (about 8* before), but, it seems happy where it is so who am I to complain.

Now I have a sticky throttle cable to contend with before I drive it for the first time, but it's about to rain so I'll wait on that.
 
I should have just let it run.

I pulled the plugs and they were all nice and dry and looked almost brand new as they should have with less than 5 minutes of idling on them.

So, I let it run for like 20 minutes. Smoke cleared up!

It's running best with the timing a bit more retarded than I would expect (about 8* before), but, it seems happy where it is so who am I to complain.

Now I have a sticky throttle cable to contend with before I drive it for the first time, but it's about to rain so I'll wait on that.
Don't wd45 it use a good cable lube or trans fluid.
 
Don't wd45 it use a good cable lube or trans fluid.
I don’t think that’s the issue. With the new carb I needed to align the cable better so the cable mounting bracket is closer to the exit point from the firewall in addition to the end of the cable being closer as well. The bends that end up in the cable between the firewall and the mounting bracket are pretty tight. That said, a little trans fluid is a cheap way to make sure. But suspect the entire assembly is two or three inches too long now.
 
I have had cable housings with a complete loop in the cable. As long as the pull at the carb is correct it better it be to long as to short having no room for engine movement.
 
I have had cable housings with a complete loop in the cable. As long as the pull at the carb is correct it better it be to long as to short having no room for engine movement.
I just ordered a new one. They're cheap. Better to know it's good then to play with fire.
 
I just ordered a new one. They're cheap. Better to know it's good then to play with fire.
Wasn't the issue. I wonder if the throttle cable is too far below the level of the lever on the carb? At least they're both in the same plane at this point, but maybe the mount needs to be up higher?
 
The 4bbl anchor bracket was always different than 2bbl brackets. It was higher and further forward. You may have to build something. Guys have modded 2bbl brackets to be 4 bbl brackets; just cut add and weld.

Your stink may have been a dead or dying creature nesting in your muffler
 
The 4bbl anchor bracket was always different than 2bbl brackets. It was higher and further forward. You may have to build something. Guys have modded 2bbl brackets to be 4 bbl brackets; just cut add and weld.

Your stink may have been a dead or dying creature nesting in your muffler


I hadn't consider the dead animal idea. Might have been?

The bracket is modified although I may cut it up and modify it again just to make it a little better looking and work just a tick better. But it's functional.
 
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