My '48 F1 project truck

My first post here is to show you my '48 Ford F1 project truck. I picked this one up for free, just to get it out of a fellow's yard. I also scored much better running boards, fenders, radiator support, and tailgate for free. My only expense so far is $100 for a Chevy S-10 chassis to put under it - the truck had no running gear.

My plan is to make it a low-budget rat rod, chop the top, put on the better sheet metal, hot rod flat black primer, and whatever else I can do to it for little to nothing.

It has the original straight 6, but my brother gave me a Chevy 4-bolt-main 350 short block and all new rebuild components, as well as a Turbo 400 tranny, as trade for some work on his Jeep. Not a bad deal.

I'll wait to start this project until the Texas heat cools off a bit. About 40 days of 100-plus temps makes it slightly uncomfortable to go outside to tinker around with sheet metal and welding. I'll be a regular here once the project gets off the ground.

See ya then,
Jerry

Get after it Troy

you have a job ahead of you, good luck

That's a good body style

looks like a good/cost effective way to start, good luck with the build and keep us updated

You should post your address I have some parts that i could send you .Door handles ,gas filler tube I shaved them on my 52 and don't need them:flame:Love the truck and lack of hevy rust throughs.

As you can tell, I was off the grid for quite a while. Way too many things tugging me in way too many directions. However, I am now ready to roll my sleeves up and dive into this project. First thing I plan to do is go this weekend to Waco and retrieve a GMC S15 I located for cheap. My hope is that I can make use of much of it to get a decent chassis tucked under the old carcass. Right now, as I mentioned, it is still sitting strapped down on top of the S10 chassis with several flat tires. When I say "chassis" that's all I mean, just a frame with four rolling wheels.

Again, my long range plan is to replace the rusted out sheet metal with spares I picked up for fenders, running boards, tail gate, and grille. Then, I hope to chop the top and fit everything onto either the S10 or S15 chassis. Since the 350 SB I got from my brother has a broken starter bolt mounting ear, I'm not sure the block can be salvaged. Regardless, the plan is to ditch the straight 6 and drop in a V8 of some sort. Can some of you who have successfully made this chassis swap give me a rundown on what is in store for me. Are there major issues I should be aware of? Are there some nifty little tricks I should know about?

I finally have at my disposal a full complement of oxy/acetylene, stick, MIG, TIG, and plasma, as well as a bountiful supply of clean, dry compressed air. I am excited about the challenge and hope to be able to contribute to this board with what I learn along the way.

Stay tuned....
Jerry

Well, as the poet Robert Burns once said, "The best-laid plans o' mice an' men often go awry". I'm here once again with a change in plans. I'm getting closer to beginning a major push, but I still have significant decisions to make.
I was fortunate enough to pick up a second, and much better '50 cab, as well as extra fenders, running boards, cab top, and doors - all very handy when considering chopping the top. I did decide to toss out the Chevy 350 and worked a deal with a buddy to complete a Ford 302 that he was halfway done with.
Here is my first major decision...which cam to go with. My overall goal is to have a truck that looks and sounds good, but I can drive it two and a half hours or more down to Houston to meet my son at car shows (or maybe take it on a Hot Rod Power Tour) and not stop in every other town for gas. I want a little lope, low end to mid-range torque to get this heavy truck moving, and some decent driveability. Is that too much to ask for?
Other plans include fuel injection, Ford 8.8 rearend with disk brakes, relocate gas tank to rear of bed, chopping 3-4" and extending 10" the cab, probably AOD or AODE transmission, and adding A/C.
So, my first official question is about your personal experience with cams in a fairly stock 302 (bored 0.030 over), roller lifters block, stock E7TE Mustang heads, and factory intake with fuel injection.
I've been pointed towards the Ford B303 cam, but I've been reading mixed reviews about loss of low end torque and reduced fuel economy, exactly the opposite of my goals. I'm not looking for street fights, and I won't be going to the track. Do any of you have direct knowledge to back up, or refute, these concerns?
With this engine build in the works, my project has legitimately begun, so I'll be back with a ton more questions as things progress.

Welcome back, looks like a interesting project there. I remember the B303 cam, I have seen it in a couple of 90's Mustangs with fuel injection. Sounded good, not to radical.

I found this about the 303 series of cam's

SMALL BLOCK V-8 HYDRAULIC ROLLER TAPPET CAMSHAFTS

The B303 is the most mild of the bunch. Is flat tappet a option or do you want to stick to roller?

If you run the AOD make sure the TV cable is set up correctly or it will cook the clutches.
If you chose the AODE you will need a way to make it shift, I don't recall it 302's in Mustangs ever used the AODE.

With the availability of GM powerplants and drivelines I am not sure the Ford route is the most reasonable for the goals you want to accomplish. Just to much setting in potential recycling bins of complete components without the worry of mismatched parts and availability on the road. If nothing else this was one thing GM was good about. Not so much with Ford and the need for vehicle specific parts.

65 sporty said:

Welcome back, looks like a interesting project there. I remember the B303 cam, I have seen it in a couple of 90's Mustangs with fuel injection. Sounded good, not to radical.

I found this about the 303 series of cam's

SMALL BLOCK V-8 HYDRAULIC ROLLER TAPPET CAMSHAFTS

The B303 is the most mild of the bunch. Is flat tappet a option or do you want to stick to roller?

If you run the AOD make sure the TV cable is set up correctly or it will cook the clutches.
If you chose the AODE you will need a way to make it shift, I don't recall it 302's in Mustangs ever used the AODE.

Click to expand...

Yes, going with rollers.
Just spent some time at my favorite transmission shop this afternoon picking his brain. He also suggested looking at
a 4R70W or 4R75W. Anyone have firsthand experience with these? I'll be the first to admit I don't know squat about
transmissions, beyond the Torqueflite 727 we put in my son's '74 Dodge Dart - really stout transmission. Simple and
straightforward, with no electronics to worry about.

7mopar said:

With the availability of GM powerplants and drivelines I am not sure the Ford route is the most reasonable for the goals you want to accomplish. Just to much setting in potential recycling bins of complete components without the worry of mismatched parts and availability on the road. If nothing else this was one thing GM was good about. Not so much with Ford and the need for vehicle specific parts.

Click to expand...

I'm not much worried about sticking with this plan. My son and I cobbled together parts from about four Dusters and Darts, and two Maxi-vans to build his first car.
This seems like a good project for me to learn a lot from - one of the main reasons I build my own and don't just drop cash down for one already built.











It was totaled in an accident and we rebuilt it a second time.

Here is the '50 cab that I most likely will use, instead of the '48. This one has more "patina" with the layers of paint and isn't just rusty.

The 4R70W and 4R75W seem like decent transmissions, the 75 will handle more torque. You will need a computer to shift it and the speedo will be electronic only.

65 sporty said:

The 4R70W and 4R75W seem like decent transmissions, the 75 will handle more torque. You will need a computer to shift it and the speedo will be electronic only.

Click to expand...

I am going tomorrow to look at a '99 Mercury Mountaineer with a fuel injected 5.0L (may have blown head gasket, but good for harness and computer), 4R70W (transmission code U), and limited slip 3.73 rearend (axle code D4). I may score big time.

Sounds like a great donor for a lot of parts. As you probably know there are always little things you need that the donor may be able to supply and you can make work with your project.

Looks like that's going to be a cool build. Good luck with it.