• Welcome to For Trucks Only !

    We are a community of American Brand Pickup Truck and SUV owners. Join now! Its Free!

Drum removal on 69 Jeepster Commando

Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

Active Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
87
Reaction score
34
Location
North Branch, MN
A friend has his Jeep in my detail shop. It needs wheel cylinders - no brake pedal and leaking. I want it out of my shop, but he can't get the drums off. Anyone know the trick to get rear brake drums off a 1969 Jeep Jeepster Commando? I need the space and will do it for him just to clear my shop.
Jeepster.jpg
Jeepster1.jpg
 
Heat and a hammer, if they are real stubborn. I just got the drums off a 1956 Mercury and didn't have to pound with a hammer too much. Make sure you adjust that star wheel adjuster so it loosens up. Some PB Blaster or similar at the studs if flash rusted there.
 
Not that style. Big bearing nut holding the drum on. Tried a slide hammer and could't get it. Didn't see you at Mopars in the Park. Did you go? My car broke like it does every time i drive it to MIP. Hasn't been on the road since.
 
Mopar to ya said:
Not that style. Big bearing nut holding the drum on. Tried a slide hammer and could't get it. Didn't see you at Mopars in the Park. Did you go? My car broke like it does every time i drive it to MIP. Hasn't been on the road since.
Click to expand...
Duh, truck axle, been out in the heat too much!

I went to MitP took the Polara again. Talked to your brother about his truck, he was parked in the row across from me. I haven't driven the Polara much since then, gotta get some other things done on a 56 Mercury Medalist then take apart a Polara I get tomorrow. Gonna be hectic.
 
thats right handed hammer although , lol . but yes wheel cylinders leaked fluid out on to the inside of the drums . then they rust fast to the shoes . heat , tap n pull them off . maybe more heat , pound n hank . try not to have to pry them off . might make it an easier removal if you could spin the wheels and drums help crack them lose . but don't forget that right handed hammer . lol .
 
okay if there the nut on axle type , fill the brake system fluid and breed for paddle . the take the nuts off remove any washer behind it to the hubs , replace nuts losey . replace safety pin throw the nut and axle . then drive the car to losen up the hubs on the spins . then return and remove everything . thats start from chrysler on that type rear brakes and axle combo , thats how i did my 64 chrysler same type rear drum hub combo . But if it was me in my shop , i'd pinch that rear brake hose off with vice gripps . and bread the system to get peddle and send it to the brake shop .
 
Can't bleed for pedal. It leaks. You are saying to remove the axle nut and washer, put back on loosely and put the pin in and drive it slowly? Sorry, but it isn't very clear. So I use the weight of the vehicle to loosen the bearing assembly since the nut is loose? I've done that with lug nuts on wheels that would not come off. Am I clear on what you are saying?
 
I think it's the same line of thought, loosen everything just a little, drive it to "wiggle" it loose and take it apart. Crude but effective?
 
thats what chryslers enginnering staff came up with for rear hubs removal . but thats based on an operating vehicle . i think adding the e brakes to help stop and loosen n jarr the hubs could work in your favor as well . so thats a yes on lose nuts with carter pins in throw the nut and axle (the threaded part) . and if there is a washer between the hub and nut . just leave it off to get more wiggle room . seem easy right . and if the master cylinder leaks , just replace it . the vise grip clamped hose can stop those rear brakes from leaking . and with a new master cylinder it would have front brakes , unless there leaking to . oh ya if its a stick , you can use the started in gear to move it . just remove the coil wire , and crank the engine over like your starting it , but in gear with the clutch paddle out engaging it . if its an auto that will not work of course . just my two pennies worth .
 
Okay, so what I found was the nut had nothing to do with it. There was a small lip the size of the drum face that was about 6" around. It was a tight fit. I beat the shit out of the drum until I had blisters on my hand. I tried using an air hammer, penetrating oil, etc... I finally got it to start lifting up but the studs appeared to be holding it in place. I figured studs are cheap and easy to replace so I screwed a nut onto them and pounded them in. Once the fifth one loosened up the drum came off in my hands. Going back together the hub was such a tight fit I had to use washer and lug nuts to hold it in place and lightly air hammer the drum over the lip. But it's done and on the road. Needed a wheel cylinder, shoes and a drum. Of course the line twisted off and I had to replace a small section of line as well.
20170713_113217.jpg
20170713_113258.jpg
20170713_113310.jpg
 
Last edited:
I was thinking the drum was held onto the hub by the wheel studs, never would have thought it was a press fit onto the hub.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top