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I replaced the voltage regulator and the ignition resistor. I'll do what you recommend. I know for sure I don't have a computer.

The alternator blew up all the wires 5 months ago in a short. Ram strong before that. Wires to the switch were blown out too.

Engine harness from can't remember rn, but it's an old stock refurbished, under dash harness from brads nos parts

Becuase the alternator went out and burnt all the wiring harnesses including the old ignition switch. It's quite common for the ig switch to burn on these trucks.

I have a book for my truck specifically, it shows the six wires I have, that's not the issue. In my other photos in this thread you can see the wires in the plug that match the book, and the hard to read switch wires.

As stated when responding to 58, a blue and black when pwr on, yellow and brown when pwr start, unlabeled unknown. Also, is the windshield wiper switch a required component to crank for some reason? Wiring harness is the wires going in the plug. Saw the guy saying 6 wires is weird, it's a fac...

It's a universal switch, not brand specific, I did this test earlier today, see response to 58pwrwgn for outcomes

There is no yellow on the harness, there is on the switch. I got two pairs with continuity. Black and blue when on, meaning those are my accessory and running ig. And on start yellow and brown go, meaning those are my start ig. And starter. When I wired the yellow to the pink for the starter...

I do not believe so, how do I tell?

I already have a book for my truck but the Napa ks6691 (?) ignition switch has a brown black red yellow brown blue and a skinny black. Wiring harness has the book-match red pink, orange, skinny orange, black, blue/light blue,

I put whole new wiring harnesses in my 75 w100 with the 5.2 & it cranked then, put a new ignition switch in and now it doesn't crank. The switch has 2 thick wires and 4 small wires. My big wires are correct but I don't think my small ones are and I can't figure out a way to correct it.

All the numbers on the switch I need are 3738546, 36033-R and 1465. The correct switch has 2 pairs of the three wires with the bottom three coming off on an angle. Picture attached.

1975 w100, 5.2, no radio, no ac, no power nothing. My under dash harness went kapooie, new under dash has no wires for the brake controller & the brake controller had previously been disabled. How can I put a nut on / block / seal the hydraulic line that goes through the firewall so I don't have...

Okay, I do have that exact same ballast resistor! Look at that kit and tell me if you think that's compatible though 🤣🤣🤣

JEGS 40500K2: Mopar Ignition Kit Fits Small Block Mopar "LA" Engine 273/318/340/360 - JEGS This is the kit. It is right for my engine, I don't think I have that white block type of resistor, is the harness and resistor for a complete system? I think I found th culprit though. The alternator...

So if you check my recent posts you can see recently the alternator went out on my 75 w100 power wagon with a 318. After putting the new alternator in it was acting like it had no spark. Went though initial timing a good 7 or 8 times. So at this point I assumed the alternator overclocked...

Completely smooth out of second though

It's a four in the floor, it crunches into second gear. I'll be putting it in second and the shifter will stop, then I have to push it pretty hard and it crunches and goes into second.

(75 w100 318la) as I'm going forward with building my first vehicle ever, I'm finding of course, I know nothing. My factory manual trans has a crunchy second and I'd love to replace it before putting down lots of power. I'd really love to keep it manual. Do you guys know any trans I can put it...

In the past I did burn the field positive choke manifold heater (of the same circuit) on a different wiring harness, I replaced the harness and not the regulator, it seems that has fried my regulator and then no reg fried the alternator?